That's why the good techs are always busy. I'm the same - I would change rails and body parts all day. Start fiddling with little springs and stuff and it's off to a tech.
THE TM MWS thread
- Thread starter Wo1f
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That's why the good techs are always busy. I'm the same - I would change rails and body parts all day. Start fiddling with little springs and stuff and it's off to a tech.
C-Diddy
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- May 10, 2020
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I fitted the SixG nub and had to replace the nozzle return spring and the hop clicker spring. Didn't enjoy it ? Just had my NGRS back from KOA and no way I would have attempted that...although I did replace the inner barrel and hop rubber without fuss. It's just not for me.
scar527
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- Jul 5, 2021
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PewPewLoki
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- Feb 13, 2019
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New GunsModify PMAGs just dropped!
Anyone fancy being the AFUK guinea pig? I already wasted a fortune on the Ace1Arms/SAA and G&P offerings...
Anyone fancy being the AFUK guinea pig? I already wasted a fortune on the Ace1Arms/SAA and G&P offerings...
PewPewLoki
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- Feb 13, 2019
- 30
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Leaky release valves from get-go. Replaced the release valves with some PTS Hi-Capa ones. Leak fixed.
Fill valves fell apart on 3 of my 5 mags while in-game (and in a pouch). Replaced with stock TM ones. So far so good.
Weird seal issues with the gas router causing really slugging performance and ridiculously low fps (sub 100 on a .2). Replaced that with a RunIn Workshop purple one. Issue continues and I'm not sure why - possibly pushing up on the bottom of the carrier? I'd heard the Guarder routers seem to fix that, but not tried yet.
Just feels like I've spent a hell of a lot of money on mags that cost more than stock TM ones and perform way worse.
Davegolf
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- Sep 22, 2009
- 2,103
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Yeh i completely get that, if you wanna run PMAGs you gotta shell out.
You neeed the SAA mags, TM fill and exit valves, sand down the top plate for correct insertion depth - this is what your FPS / gas route issue actually is.
Shame TM dont just make some modern mags, i mean come on Marui we are not still in the 80s!
You neeed the SAA mags, TM fill and exit valves, sand down the top plate for correct insertion depth - this is what your FPS / gas route issue actually is.
Shame TM dont just make some modern mags, i mean come on Marui we are not still in the 80s!
PewPewLoki
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- Feb 13, 2019
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Oh ffs, it's the actual depth the mag is seated at?! You may have just saved me a few quid there - I had some Guarder routers in my basket and was about to checkout.
I didn't even think to check that, because I assumed that's something that these companies would... y'know... 'get right'...
Davegolf
Members
- Sep 22, 2009
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Yes if you compare the SAA to a genuine TM mag youll see the top plate is 'taller' than it should be, therefor holding the bucking away from the nozzle.
As is the case always with the MWS, keep as many stock parts as you can.
I did a lot of testing with a customers SAA vs TM mags (he had like 12 in total) and the SAA fill valve would not allow a full fill (tested by weight of liquid gas taken on), and as you found the exit valves spring pressure / knocker length isnt quite right either.
As is the case always with the MWS, keep as many stock parts as you can.
I did a lot of testing with a customers SAA vs TM mags (he had like 12 in total) and the SAA fill valve would not allow a full fill (tested by weight of liquid gas taken on), and as you found the exit valves spring pressure / knocker length isnt quite right either.
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Panama
AF-UK patch owner
- Jul 10, 2020
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PewPewLoki
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- Feb 13, 2019
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Ha, I didn't even get as far as the not-allowing-a-full-fill issue. The brass centre pin would fall out of the threaded housing and either into the gas chamber in the mag, or out into a muddy field...
I've just measured up my TM and SAA mags and whaddya know? It does sit higher. I know what this evening's shenanigans will be.
Nice try! I already spent more money than I'd care to recount on 10 TM mags, 5 SAAs and 5 G&P 'stendos. I'll let someone else foot that bill...
Khyber
Members
- Oct 21, 2021
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Hey, so with my UKARA still not registered. Been onto my local site for 2 weeks now and they still haven't done it. And I'm told it only takes 2 mins... ? anyway obviously my rifle still hasn't been ordered. But... I was originally wanting the mk18 version but the over used loctite on the barrel nut and the need for a URX tool has been putting me off, think I may be swayed back to a standard m4a1 as its so easy to access the inner barrel and hop up etc.. so got a question. I presume the gas tube running from the gas block/front sight back to the receiver is inert? Am i correct? If so is it possible to run the rifle without the front sight and gas tube leaving the hand guard / rail free floating. I'm not over keen on the front sight which is one reason I was going for the mk18. If it's fine to run like this it will make the m4a1 a more preferable choice for me again. As well as the fact its £70-80 cheaper. ( that leaves money for an extra mag )
Thanks in advance.
) Thanks in advance.
PewPewLoki
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- Feb 13, 2019
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It is indeed. Just a solid metal stick for appearance's sake. Looks nice and realistic when you can see it running through the inside of an M-Lok handguard, but hardly a functional part.
You can remove the “gas tube” but will need to retain the front sight / gas block to hold the front of the hand guard on. You can get front gas blocks with fold down front sight that are lower profile.Hey, so with my UKARA still not registered. Been onto my local site for 2 weeks now and they still haven't done it. And I'm told it only takes 2 mins... ? anyway obviously my rifle still hasn't been ordered. But... I was originally wanting the mk18 version but the over used loctite on the barrel nut and the need for a URX tool has been putting me off, think I may be swayed back to a standard m4a1 as its so easy to access the inner barrel and hop up etc.. so got a question. I presume the gas tube running from the gas block/front sight back to the receiver is inert? Am i correct? If so is it possible to run the rifle without the front sight and gas tube leaving the hand guard / rail free floating. I'm not over keen on the front sight which is one reason I was going for the mk18. If it's fine to run like this it will make the m4a1 a more preferable choice for me again. As well as the fact its £70-80 cheaper. ( that leaves money for an extra mag
Thanks in advance.
Little knowledge nugget:
TM MWS all stock except for Crazyjet barrel* ASG gas and temp around 19deg shooting 0.30g BBs.
FPS is over 5shots, equivalent for 0.20g shown in brackets.
(350fps 0.20g == 285fps 0.30g == 1.13J)
G&P Green nozzle set to:
Minimum (almost fully closed) - 255fps (312fps)
Maximum (fully open) - 305fps (373fps)
I have replaced the plastic grub screw which was starting to split along the screwdriver slot with a 3mm x 6mm stainless grub screw (1.5mm hex key) and some blue Loctite to keep it in place. A blob of super glue on the end stops it unscrewing all the way and flying down the barrel (a la AngryGun v1 nozzles) Screwing it out a couple of threads seems to keep it around 265-270fps (allowing for the sites chrono to differ from mine!)
*crazyjet barrel adds 15-20fps over the stock TM one on 0.30g / Greengas
TM MWS all stock except for Crazyjet barrel* ASG gas and temp around 19deg shooting 0.30g BBs.
FPS is over 5shots, equivalent for 0.20g shown in brackets.
(350fps 0.20g == 285fps 0.30g == 1.13J)
G&P Green nozzle set to:
Minimum (almost fully closed) - 255fps (312fps)
Maximum (fully open) - 305fps (373fps)
I have replaced the plastic grub screw which was starting to split along the screwdriver slot with a 3mm x 6mm stainless grub screw (1.5mm hex key) and some blue Loctite to keep it in place. A blob of super glue on the end stops it unscrewing all the way and flying down the barrel (a la AngryGun v1 nozzles) Screwing it out a couple of threads seems to keep it around 265-270fps (allowing for the sites chrono to differ from mine!)
*crazyjet barrel adds 15-20fps over the stock TM one on 0.30g / Greengas
Was from a couple of weeks ago when it wasn’t quite as chilly. Mags and gas were stored inside and checked with the kitchen meat thermometer before use.
