I've decided to mess around with a Nuprol freedom fighter I have that seems to be a bit of a pup/lemon for me. I am thinking of putting in some 13:1 gears into the gearbox as well as a few other things to the gun, but looking at bits around the tinterwebs people seem to be using a higher power spring, can anyone shed a little light on this for me? Would be greatly appreciated.
Yeah I think I haven't worded it very well. Was half asleep when I wrote it.
I am messing around with a gun of mine that has given me a fair few problems since I've had it, instead of binning the gun off or selling it, I am going to use it as a project and a tinker gun so I can learn/get experience with servicing and/or upgrading.
I have decided to try some 13:1 ratios gears for an increased ROF, in the brief bit of research I have done on this, I have read that people say to use a M120/M130 spring, but don't seem to say why they use it.
Is there any reason for a stronger spring in with that ratio of gears or are people using having the gear box open as an excuse to put in more power too?
Yeah I think I haven't worded it very well. Was half asleep when I wrote it.
I am messing around with a gun of mine that has given me a fair few problems since I've had it, instead of binning the gun off or selling it, I am going to use it as a project and a tinker gun so I can learn/get experience with servicing and/or upgrading.
I have decided to try some 13:1 ratios gears for an increased ROF, in the brief bit of research I have done on this, I have read that people say to use a M120/M130 spring, but don't seem to say why they use it.
Is there any reason for a stronger spring in with that ratio of gears or are people using having the gear box open as an excuse to put in more power too?
The gun does have a micro switch, which I've had to have replaced 3 times I think, within 18 months of having the gun, it seeming to break on the third day of use or so. The original gun tech who replaced it told me it's a known issue with the gun and it will just need replacing if and when it does go. The second tech to look at it basically told me Nuprol are the devil and I must be pulling the trigger too hard.
I did start pricing up a new gearbox to drop in with the second gun tech, and after a bit of back and fourth he seemed to price one up for around 270 (a bit more than I paid for the gun in the first place) this didn't sound right to me, as part of his rebuild/replace I was buying a full gearbox (ares model for around 115 quid) and then extra bits to go inside.
I have subsequently bought more guns anyway and I haven't thought about this gun really since. At a local gun shop I held a Vector and decided I want one, but was pointed out to me that I do have a gun that's just sitting there, so a project is bourne.
I'm not after a crazy ROF but as I said I am going to use it as a project gun, rather than an interesting looking door stop.
I have had a feeding issue last time I used the gun, which was a new one, seemed to be double feeding the ammo, I took it apart at site and the bucking rubber was all creased up for some reason so straightened this out and this seemed to sort the feeding issue but then presented me with a weird issue with the mags. After about 50 or so rounds with a hi-cap mag it would almost push the mag out of it's own accord, not fully out as the mag release hadn't been pressed but out enough that it stopped feeding. Havent used the gun since as I bought yet another gun anyways.
So things in my head to do or attempt are the following
13:1 gear set
New Hop up (thinking rotary)
New trigger (I like the look and feel of a flat one)#
I am also not opposed to trying a new micro switch if you guys think a "better" one will stop it breaking but I was told this wasn't possible by the tech.
That's probably a lot of waffling and not very coherent, apologies
So things in my head to do or attempt are the following
13:1 gear set
New Hop up (thinking rotary)
New trigger (I like the look and feel of a flat one)#
I am also not opposed to trying a new micro switch if you guys think a "better" one will stop it breaking but I was told this wasn't possible by the tech.
That's probably a lot of waffling and not very coherent, apologies
Unfortunately that is the sentiment I have had from a few people, that it's not worth the time/money/investment. When it works the gun feels good (to me at least).
So it seems to be either sink a tiny bit of money into it and don't expect much
£270 quote for a drop-in! that's insane lol. I just finished fitted out 2 E&C QD gearboxes with SHS 13:1's, works great without having to mess around too much with the internals. As Duck says, keep it simple. Cheap plastic rotary hop chamber.
You replace the contacts, the COL, the trigger, Add in a v2 saftey lever, Replace the selector plate, then realise you need a new gearset to kick the COL correctly. It would be easy to spend £45 and have nothing to show for it, other than time wasted.
How nuprol get away with a microswitch without a fet is criminal. It's engineered to fail, An arcing microswitch is a dead microswitch. Even in perfect running conditions the added resistance and heat build up on them embrittles the mechanism and causes premature death.
It's an awesome little box, gave it a good running last week with the stock 18:1 gears, 7.4 and 22TPA motor and it purred along, been trying all sorts of combinations since then. Also tried it with the stock gears running for a short shoot to see if I could break them, no luck.
Found SHS gen 4 gears worked the best (the black ones). Spring guide comes with a bearing btw, compression out of the box is super tight. Personally I wouldn't even bother upgrading the cylinder head, piston head or nozzle - seems so good. Fitted aluminium SHS cylinder, piston head and nozzle on one to test compatibility and it was perfect. Fitted plastic and aluminium Prowin style rotary and again no issues.
Darn impressed with the piston as well. The internal wall of the piston was 1mm thicker than standard pistons, hopefully going to stock these separately as I think would be a nice alternative to the CYMA. Tested with a ZCI M100, was 340 on the nose with .2's
Yeah It's the limited edition version with the magnesium body. I got it very cheap a few years ago because it was in poor condition. The gearbox that was in it has been a travesty. The original magnesium shells have been lost, Someone put a pot metal king arms shell set with a G&G ETU in it, It ate the wires at the pinion because the old casts were thicker. So It's been one of those guns I look at and think I'll drop a new box in it at some point. I did think about converting the box back, but for pretty much the same reasons as this thread (going on the never never with compatible parts) I never got round to it.
It's rear wired onto a solid stock, but I have the wire stock as well. I may at some point change it back onto the wire stock, but the weight distribution on the solid stock is really good. Or I may pick up the upgraded Dboys wire stock. It'll depend on how much I enjoy it, It has a lot of competition, My AUG a3 is absolutely silent, and my G3 is just a beast, So It'll have to be special for me to want to use it.
I got one short version of this when they came out, 15 years ago?? lovely. Not sure mine has the magnesium body, it certainly feels different to most metal bodies. After the first game the gearbox imploded lol G&G were the worst back then for QC it seems. You have to get the original wire stock back on it ?
