Tech T GunSav

[Qlimax]

My G17 output valve failed recently on my CO2. 

Ive purchased a replacement and wondered if it would be ok using GunSav to live it before installing. 

I know now it’s generally used for HPA systems so I know it won’t cause any damage to the seal, my concern is it may be to thick. 

Ta

 

[proffrink]

I wouldn't for the reason you've said (it's too viscous to be optimal). It's not going to damage your seals though.

 

[Qlimax]

I wouldn't for the reason you've said (it's too viscous to be optimal). It's not going to damage your seals though.

Nice one mate. That was my concern the thickness of it. Wanted thoughts to clarify my own ?

 

[proffrink]

Also it stinks (and I'm still on the fence about whether it's a nice smell)

 

[Qlimax]

It’s an awful smell I absolutely have the smell of it. You can tell when someone has used it 

 

[The broadsman]

https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-92003-Lubricating-Translucent/dp/B0081JE0OO/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_200_img_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=Q0NX0NS2XFHPT3XT8G3Z

Or PTFE tape on the thread of the output valve if in a pinch.

 

[Qlimax]

The threads weren’t leaking. As soon as the CO2 bulb was punctured the gas leaked straight out of the top

 

[Qlimax]

Hmmm stumped now. 

Fitted a brand new output valve and it’s still leaking out of the top. Lubed properly and installed properly but still leaking. 

 

[proffrink]

If you're 100% certain it's the top leaking and that there's no CO2 coming out the bottom then I dunno, but what I would say is the part that pierces the bulb then or the o-ring that sits around it have always been an issue for me with the limited CO2 experience I have. If the 'piercer' is bent that can cause a slow leak too.

Assuming you've dunked it under water to test?

 

[Qlimax]

It’s 100% coming out of the top you can hear it loudly hissing away. I think I may have solved it. There’s a small silver cylinder which goes in before the rest of the valve goes in, at the end of the is a small plastic type o ring which looks like it’s snapped and having held it all together and pressing the pin in and out it looks like it catching on that green piece. 

 

[The broadsman]

Can be a number of issues and its an easy fix, if a little irritating though. Take all the valves out, wrap the threads with the PTFE tape. This needs to be done neatly, only one or two wraps per valve or they will not sit correctly. Do exactly the same for the inlet valve as well, make sure it is seated correctly too. Do make sure you are not turning the inlet valve when inserting the bulb and tightening it down. Another thing worth doing is to take out the gas router, PTFE wrap it then seat it back into position. Another little trick i learnt long ago is to wrap the tip of the co2 bulb, some are not exactly shaped correctly causing the co2 to vent all over the place. 

Takes time I know but worth giving it a go.

 

[proffrink]

Frankly I've given up on PTFE being 100% reliable for airsoft stuff and now instead use a light pneumatic sealant. Locttite 542 or Truloc Superseal are both excellent for taking out all the guess work and fiddling and are just tool strength. I think Qlimax knows about sealing up threads etc. though so this is why I didn't mention it.

Shimming the gas router with PTFE won't stop leaking unfortunately as this is well after the outlet valve has done its job (or not, as the case might be ). Lees Precision make some good shims too for the router to get a more positive seal between the nozzle and mag, but not sure if this does anything for the contact between the router and mag (which is where your trick sounds useful).

Sounds very much like this was an issue with the end of the outlet valve plunger, which can be common as it's the bit which deforms the most after being mashed by the hammer.