Hello peops, so, I've just completed my first build. All seems to be working well but the ROF is a little lower than I expected, I'm getting 14.5 rps from shs 13:1 gears and a jg blue motor on a 7.4 lipo. Does that sound about right or should I be getting more? If so, any ideas what might be wrong/need tweaking?
The JG blue isn't know for it's speed or power. It's a cheap balanced motor, That is probably having a mid life crisis over the 13:1 gear set
Any decent high torque motor should be an upgrade from what you are currently getting in terms of RPS. Even a cheap HT motor should net some good returns on that front. You will have to be careful tho, and willing to potentially open the gearbox again to make some DIY modifications to the sector gear depending on how high you want to go with the RPS.
My favourite 13:1 build runs an ASG CNC ultimate 30,000 motor. To get it to run you will need to remove a couple of teeth from the sector, Effectively short stroking the gearbox slightly, then run a slightly more powerful spring that then gets cut to make the correct FPS. My gun with that build runs 7.4v 2200mAh 25/50c batteries and gets 25rps.
If you want something cheaper than the ASG have a look at cheaper 16TPA motors. ZCI, SHS, Rocket airsoft all make suitable motors.
The SHS/RA or ZCI M110 with a coil or two cut off should be about there in terms of FPS, but it would depend on your base gun and just how good your airseals are.
I'm not looking for a high speed build in particular, I was just expecting this to be faster than it turned out and am worried I might have done something wrong. Could I have shimmed too tight for example?
I have a sorbo in there and have removed a tooth and a half from the piston rack, would that not reduce the travel slightly? Thus speeding up the cycle rate slightly?
If I were to change the motor would I not have to reshim the gears to it?
Okay, update! I've just dropped in a brand new and fully charged 7.4 lipo, 1450mah, 30c. Now I'm hitting 16.7 rps, is that what I should be expecting?
Thanks for all that information dude! Very helpful!
It's a g&p magpul receiver.
lonex gearbox, 8mm bearings, bearing spring guide, red piston, piston head, sorbo pad, type D cylinder, cylinder head, nozzle, Tappet plate etc.
Pdi 150.
Shs 13:1 with sector chip.
Jg blue motor.
300mm madbull black python 6.03. Prowin hop.
Jefftron leviathan.
Dean's.
I'm a bit of a perfectionist, took my time shimming, pretty confident that's bang on and air seal is perfect ??
Cylinder is ported and sorbo reduces volume a touch I guess, so the pdi 150 is to bring the fps back up to around 350. I reckon from what you've said I'm probably near the money?
One weird thing I noticed was applying hop increased fps, shouldn't it decrease it?
Oh, bucking is prommy purple and nub is firefly btw
Ha, the majority of the bits are second hand, bought here or there and cannibalised from other guns. Only the leviathan is new, I did try to drop in a titan I pinched from another gun but had issues with the optical sensors, maybe because of the shiny gearbox ? so opted for micro switches instead.
No need to mess about with pre cock, response is already incredible!
I'll invest in an shs ht and if I have to reshim I might swap out the gear set for 12:1 from the gun that had the titan in it, they're in really good nick.
I do have a couple of other motors from other guns, an asg U22000, a g&p but I have no idea what one, no stickers ? and.. Oh! I've got a rocket high torque! It's new too, got it with a bunch of spare upgrade parts someone was selling. Isn't that the same as shs?
Ha, the majority of the bits are second hand, bought here or there and cannibalised from other guns. Only the leviathan is new, I did try to drop in a titan I pinched from another gun but had issues with the optical sensors, maybe because of the shiny gearbox ? so opted for micro switches instead.
No need to mess about with pre cock, response is already incredible!
I'll invest in an shs ht and if I have to reshim I might swap out the gear set for 12:1 from the gun that had the titan in it, they're in really good nick.
I do have a couple of other motors from other guns, an asg U22000, a g&p but I have no idea what one, no stickers ? and.. Oh! I've got a rocket high torque! It's new too, got it with a bunch of spare upgrade parts someone was selling. Isn't that the same as shs?
Thanks for all your help and information dude, It's really appreciated!
I had no idea about the 9/10 tooth bevel, I know the gearset I have installed is maybe five years old, could that indicate it's a 9? It's barely been used though from the look of it despite it's age.
I basically want to build the best possible gun from the parts I have available and it seems that the motor is the only thing that's falling short.
These are the other motors, is one going to suit my build better than the jg blue?
Thanks for all your help and information dude, It's really appreciated!
I had no idea about the 9/10 tooth bevel, I know the gearset I have installed is maybe five years old, could that indicate it's a 9? It's barely been used though from the look of it despite it's age.
I basically want to build the best possible gun from the parts I have available and it seems that the motor is the only thing that's falling short.
These are the other motors, is one going to suit my build better than the jg blue?
One possible minor issue is with these G&G/SHS type motors...
By that I mean the way the end bell is fitted, with a ferrous lockring
then 2 x usually m2.5 screws screw into the lockring from end bell cap
they should have a plastic washer under them to insulate the poles
(otherwise you effectively have a short or risk of shorting if washers fail)
The m2 or m2.5 bolts can fail to fully centre & have one side conducting
& if both conduct - well you are in for shock - excuse pun
Possibly why @ak2m4does mention a possible warning about using Active Breaking
in some builds like Titans/Jefftron's etc....
Advisory:I've been hearing reports of Gate Titan Adaptive Active Break function is causing motors to fail. Please do not use this feature till you are sure it will not affect the motor.
One possible minor issue is with these G&G/SHS type motors...
By that I mean the way the end bell is fitted, with a ferrous lockring
then 2 x usually m2.5 screws screw into the lockring from end bell cap
they should have a plastic washer under them to insulate the poles
(otherwise you effectively have a short or risk of shorting if washers fail)
The m2 or m2.5 bolts can fail to fully centre & have one side conducting
& if both conduct - well you are in for shock - excuse pun
Possibly why @ak2m4does mention a possible warning about using Active Breaking
in some builds like Titans/Jefftron's etc....
Advisory:I've been hearing reports of Gate Titan Adaptive Active Break function is causing motors to fail. Please do not use this feature till you are sure it will not affect the motor.
Blimey dude, you really know your stuff! Are you running on lipo and wired to deans? ?
I didn't particularly go for all high end parts, but I have them so I might as well use them! Basically my whole reason for doing this build was the challenge, I take everything apart, tinker and optimise, even a toaster! I had never attempted an aeg before, then lockdown happened so I thought I would give it a go, I bought a few upgraded second hand guns that needed some work but looked in good shape, figured that if they're a lot cheaper than new but with better parts I'd be better off and this gun was the result. I still have enough parts to build a second but want to optimise this one before I start on the next.
I do have what I believe to be a stock g&p magpul sentry, apart from having a titan installed, it's where the third motor came from and having done some research I believe it is a g&p motor, and assuming it's stock, according to the spiel it's an m160. Not sure how that compares to the others.
Until I crack it open I won't know for sure whether it is all stock but it has the original hop and barrel from the looks of it which I assume would be the first things to get changed.
It does need to be opened up at some point as the selector is knackered and the gb would probably benefit from a regrease as it's not been used for a very long time.
Great cool running and economical motor, which is also very quiet.
On a 13:1 gear set with 350fps spring and 7.4V expect 16 RPS.
Which I think is about the perfect rate of fire, both in fire power lay down and the sound / realism.
Also with this motor, spring and gear ratio speed you will need very little active braking - which also saves battery power and extends the life of your motor.
The motor is very powerful and as such RPS will not change much if you add a stronger or weaker spring.
They are also extremely reliable.
I would fit a Lonex helical bevel set in there too - quieter and easier to setup.
Oh, the gun feeds perfectly by the way so I guess the hop/bucking are working well together, tbh I didn't actually do anything with that yet, just dropped it in as it came.
Unless that's what's causing fps to rise as hop is applied rather than fall?
Great cool running and economical motor, which is also very quiet.
On a 13:1 gear set with 350fps spring and 7.4V expect 16 RPS.
Which I think is about the perfect rate of fire, both in fire power lay down and the sound / realism.
Also with this motor, spring and gear ratio speed you will need very little active braking - which also saves battery power and extends the life of your motor.
The motor is very powerful and as such RPS will not change much if you add a stronger or weaker spring.
They are also extremely reliable.
I would fit a Lonex helical bevel set in there too - quieter and easier to setup.
Tbh I'm a bit sceptical about using the U22000, when I took it out of the gun it came in there was a lot of copper residue in the motor grip, I'm assuming from the previous owner using active breaking? I wonder whether it could be damaged as a result? Although the gearset looks spanking new still so maybe it's not been used that much?
I'm happy with 16rps, I just wanted to make sure that's what I should be getting and the gun is running efficiently.
so opted for micro switches instead. 
