Krytac CRB busrt fire

never suffered overspin on either of my Krytacs and run both 11.1v/7.4v and 30k/20k motors

 
PT247 said:
never suffered overspin on either of my Krytacs and run both 11.1v/7.4v and 30k/20k motors
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must be the dmr on 30k & 11.1v

A mofo neodym motor might slow a little quicker as the Krytac motor is not an intense mofo neodym motor in there

It is a neodym motor but the magnets look black so it appears to be ferrite but they are neodym:


but easier to turn than a beefy shs torque - so a silver neodym motor "might" slow quicker than the krytac

deffo neo's stop very quickly compared to lame ferrite motors on their own - tbh think the box would slow the weaker ferrite nearly as much

Over spin/run happens on lower springs - well even higher springs say m120+ can spin if pushed enough

finding the balance or perfect setup is not easy and in any case just adds more work/planning which still might not be 101% perfect

(higher speed gearing + higher spring + shortstroking actually makes motor work harder = heat & current draw or shorter battery life)

 
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Thank you everybody for your input, that gives me a lot to think about.

I'll take it into my local shop and see what they think about it, perhaps putting the fuse back in could help.

I did notice that semi-auto was more consistently single shot (not two shots) as the battery ran flatter.

 
The fuse wont make any difference to how the gun fires but it will save you having a battery fire while youre using the gun if the motor or MOSFET develops a dead short. LIPO's can generate a lot of current and the wires would probably melt and the battery wouldn't be very happy either. Put the fuse back into circuit PLEASE

callumbagshaw said:
Thank you everybody for your input, that gives me a lot to think about.

I'll take it into my local shop and see what they think about it, perhaps putting the fuse back in could help.

I did notice that semi-auto was more consistently single shot (not two shots) as the battery ran flatter.
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Okto Eight Milsim said:
The fuse wont make any difference to how the gun fires.
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Actually it can effect the current reaching the motor. Every connection in the wiring creates resistance and while on high voltage system this makes very little difference on an aeg it can have a more noticeable effect. Look at the difference between a tamiya and deans connector.
 
Technically a very very very slight increase in resistance due to fuse and additional joins (no matter how good)

probably like 1% or so increase in resistance - but yup not really gonna notice

edit - ok 1% is a low rough guess, but each join will drop a slight amount - even with deans on each join

ultra sad bastids - run fresh wires uninterupted when doing a rewire and may risk no fuse but most likely use thermal fuses instead

no fuse is very risky possible stupid/lazy - but I have done it to cheapo guns but anything of value the fuse remains

(ultra sad bastids solder wires to motor - not wise/easy on pistol grip guns but maybe only for motor cage guns - g36 or ak's etc...)

but even if it is say 5% perhaps it is more of a safety issue than anything else

More of a wise common sense precaution than resistance subject

Lipo's can explode if you are f*cking stupid like me

so it is wise to put back the basic circuit protection that came with the £350 gun

The wires aren't ultra thick either and wouldn't take much to melt if a short or overload took place

(especially pushing that much juice through her)

Replace the fuse - it isn't something you should just rip out thinking you don't need that crap

oooh just learnt they do just the fuses with led warnings which is handy quick/easy indicator:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WATERPROOF-30-A-AMP-Blade-Fuse-Holder-LED-BLOWN-WARNING-/170588198911?hash=item27b7d957ff:m:m34W_mUA30-w091D-zonkVA

or just pop in these to get same fancy led warning of blown fuse....

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/25A-LED-Car-Auto-Mini-Blade-Fuse-25-Amp-ATM-Glows-when-it-Blows-Pack-of-2-/221718787965?hash=item339f78377d:g:UZ4AAOSwstxVCqOI

think I'll order some of those myself next time I'm placing a fleabay order in my basket
 
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Its a fair bit more than 1% its not just the fuse and amount of joins its also how crap the connections are in most fuse holders. I use bladed fuses but always split the holder casing and solder the wires in.

If a gun is already close to overspin territory then a small change can push it over the edge.

I have issues with mine with overspin because I use a 35k Tienly motor with an m85 spring to keep my gun sitting just below 328fps.

With all the wiring sorted I cant even use a 7.4v 30c unless the battery is half dead. I use 9.6v nimh and if I remove either the fuse or ecu it overspins even on that.

 
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PT247 said:
have run 11.1v absolutely fine on my 20k motor in the PDW. Only issue is battery space.
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Think that is what SD is aiming at. The 30k on a lower spring will overspin but is fine on a higher rated spring like you have in your dmr. The PDW will work fine with an 11.1v and lower spring because thats what the 20k motor is for.
As you know because thats what your running just clarifying for others.

 
ImTriggerHappy said:
Think that is what SD is aiming at. The 30k on a lower spring will overspin but is fine on a higher rated spring like you have in your dmr. The PDW will work fine with an 11.1v and lower spring because thats what the 20k motor is for.

As you know because thats what your running just clarifying for others.
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aye but the OP has never stated he runs a 30k motor, if he has a UK gun then it'll have a 20k motor and should work fine on 11.1v (although obviously isn't).

 
PT247 said:
aye but the OP has never stated he runs a 30k motor, if he has a UK gun then it'll have a 20k motor and should work fine on 11.1v (although obviously isn't).
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Some shops are selling them in the UK with the 30k so you never know what hes got. Makes things a bit awkward when someone has an issue because without cracking it open you are never sure where to start ☺
 
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All UK retailers are selling with the 20k, it is only the countries which have higher fps limits that get the 30k so as I said, if it is a UK gun then it should be fine on 11.1v. Bit late to worry about cracking it open now he has chopped out the fuse and accessing the motor is a 2min job.

 
PT247 said:
All UK retailers are selling with the 20k, it is only the countries which have higher fps limits that get the 30k so as I said, if it is a UK gun then it should be fine on 11.1v. Bit late to worry about cracking it open now he has chopped out the fuse and accessing the motor is a 2min job.
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The initial batch shipped in with 30k motors so some might still be lying around. I know Hef bought a PDW about a month back with a 30k motor but cant remember what shop that was from.
Edit; JD airsoft just messaged him.

 
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Sitting Duck said:
That is why the UK is supposed to get the slower motor than US, though tbh it isn't ultra insane motor

reckon you got a 30k or a mofo lipo or a weak spring - suggest you have a rethink...

Then speak to shop if they got a direct import and possible spring/juice/motor option
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anything could happen old UK stock, grey/gray import

was in short supply but now some US people might have eased up awaiting mk2's

so a small surplus of US stock might find their way over to Europe perhaps with 30k

Chuck in also supply problem if they ran out of 20k's and orders are begging to be filled....

Think they could of it SS the US spring setup 1 or 2 teeth but them over the other side of the pond might not like it if us Limey guns shoot a bit quicker :)

(oh well - maybe something to consider Mr Krytac on the mk2's perhaps ???)

But OP needs to be a little careful using it at faster speeds - says the guy who is highly trained in breaking more guns than he has fixed

keep it at a balanced speed and she will do you proud - keep pushing her as it is and - well you get the idea by now.....

 
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