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Gearboxes
- Thread starter Nutster
- Start date
Matt!
Moderator
- Sep 5, 2008
- 1,263
- 24
Notes
Google.com the gun you are going to disassemble
www.Youtube.com search your gun there for tips.
Mechbox.com some useful videos there.
On a final note : Take pictures regularly as you may forget when you put it all back together and also keep ALL screws safe and peices safe turst me they can be a annoying to replace, maybe on a magnet?
Google.com the gun you are going to disassemble
www.Youtube.com search your gun there for tips.
Mechbox.com some useful videos there.
On a final note : Take pictures regularly as you may forget when you put it all back together and also keep ALL screws safe and peices safe turst me they can be a annoying to replace, maybe on a magnet?
Check www.mechbox.com, watch the tutorial videos.. as for keeping screws safe, make a paper cut-out of the gearbox or gun and put the screws through the paper at the corresponding location. Will keep things neat and tidy.
Last edited by a moderator:
Trooper1975
Members
- Jan 14, 2009
- 7
- 2
If you are just starting out, then take the gearbox apart in a large clear bag. This way if you find things popping out at you, you won't loose them in a hurry. There are many videos on the net of how to take a gearbox apart, but if you have trouble, PM me here, andi'll help by making a video on how to do this for you.
That paper trick is SUCH a good idea! I normally bung my bits in a little box, but I like your way better.
Photographing everything is a really good idea. As might videoing be. I photographed my spring swap, but at the critical time I found I ran out of hands when changing my spring. Next time I'll video the process.
As it's a split gearbox the spring swap was easy, I'm leaving the lower gearbox just as it is until I need to mess with it.
Not that I'm chicken or anything, I could strip it down and reassemble it, easy!
Okay, maybe not just yet!
Lozart
Supporters
- Jun 24, 2013
- 8,493
- 4,942
Small screwdriver up the back end of the spring guide. And more hands than average...
Sitting Duck
Supporters
- May 11, 2014
- 4,894
- 1,735
Yup - never done that before - I do tell great big lies though#
even when you are ready & prepared - so you think...
it still explodes on ya first time or two - open box in carrier bag
(helps to prevent you searching hands n knees for that tiny spring later)
Problem I've had with trying to shim certain combinations of gearbox shell /bushes/gears is there isn't enough width in the shell for the gears to run freely. What worked for me is to put the offending gear in with one of the bushes (don't try this with bearings) the wrong way up. Then very carefully tighten down (not fully, just until you don't dare tighten any more for fear of stripping threads) the gearbox screws around it in an even pattern. Not recommended but it should push the gearbox sides out just enough to give the clearance needed.
Sitting Duck
Supporters
- May 11, 2014
- 4,894
- 1,735
Just an example of the real importance of checking EVERYTHING !!!!
A common problem that is often overlooked is shimming badly or too tight
AND a new piston that is a little too tight or binds inside the gearbox....
(Above all else care & attention to detail is of the utmost importance so check EVERYTHING)
Reason being is that many rip everything out and replace loads of new stuff slapping it all together
Then wonder wtf that is a bit slow/sounds crap/getting very warm/hot quickly etc.....
If your piston is binding, your rof is likely to be lower and your amps higher plus gun's efficiency will be crap
Also the piston will be slower to return on release so your expected fps will be down
(Start pushing a gun with a binding piston and PME is likely to occur sooner too)
You don't want to see a very loose sloppy fitting piston with loads of slack moving all over the place
But you need to check it moves freely and falls on its own when fitted inside the box (screws done up)
Here is a pic of a slightly binding piston for somebody with a lower rof than expected issue....
Hence it is sooooooooooo important to pay attention when fitting replacement parts
Fairly sure the picture speaks for itself, but a mild bit of sanding on gearbox rails or piston guides is required
btw the gearbox is standing vertically upright but still the piston does not fall freely
PS - same piston does not seem to bind in a G&G box but never ever just assume anything will work 101%
A common problem that is often overlooked is shimming badly or too tight
AND a new piston that is a little too tight or binds inside the gearbox....
(Above all else care & attention to detail is of the utmost importance so check EVERYTHING)
Reason being is that many rip everything out and replace loads of new stuff slapping it all together
Then wonder wtf that is a bit slow/sounds crap/getting very warm/hot quickly etc.....
If your piston is binding, your rof is likely to be lower and your amps higher plus gun's efficiency will be crap
Also the piston will be slower to return on release so your expected fps will be down
(Start pushing a gun with a binding piston and PME is likely to occur sooner too)
You don't want to see a very loose sloppy fitting piston with loads of slack moving all over the place
But you need to check it moves freely and falls on its own when fitted inside the box (screws done up)
Here is a pic of a slightly binding piston for somebody with a lower rof than expected issue....
Hence it is sooooooooooo important to pay attention when fitting replacement parts
Fairly sure the picture speaks for itself, but a mild bit of sanding on gearbox rails or piston guides is required
btw the gearbox is standing vertically upright but still the piston does not fall freely
PS - same piston does not seem to bind in a G&G box but never ever just assume anything will work 101%
Last edited by a moderator:
navyvet86
Members
- Dec 21, 2022
- 276
- 7
Had an AEG explode after 5 test rounds through it after sending away... piston teeth ripped from the plastic, the cylinder head ripped apart into 3 pieces screw inside the spring... allsorts.
Not done mechbox work for a long time
Ready to assemble
Please may someone post a picture of how a mechbox opened in the position it should be right before depressing the spring and closing the lid?
Huge thanks in advance to anyone that can post that pic
Cheers
Not done mechbox work for a long time
Ready to assemble
Please may someone post a picture of how a mechbox opened in the position it should be right before depressing the spring and closing the lid?
Huge thanks in advance to anyone that can post that pic
Cheers
Need help identifying the gear box in my cybergun m4, it does not look like a v2 gearbox however I'm struggling to find someone with same gear box.
If anyone could help me identify would be amazing thanks
View attachment 109097
If anyone could help me identify would be amazing thanks
View attachment 109097
Lozart
Supporters
- Jun 24, 2013
- 8,493
- 4,942
It's a V2 gearbox with added pneumatic blowback. All the internals will be pretty standard but the cylinder will have a hole at the top to bleed off air to make the flappy bit of metal rattle about. You could replace it with a standard cylinder and ditch the annoying clacky thing.
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