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DIY

Am working on another hi-cap HPA mag for my G5 at the mo. My first required two mags stacked next to each other, this one will just be a single magazine. It wont hold quite so many BBs as the other but should still be enough for a round.







I still need to file the gas reservoir ends smooth and at 90' to the tubes then tap a thread into the tubes, I need to route a hose into the mag, join the hybrid mag together and put a hole on the back of the mag case for the striker plate. As is tho it seems to feed even better than my previous hi-cap :-)

 
Bits ordered for the mag to feed the air into the chopped down gas reservoir. Am hoping to get a new toy for "Christmas" which will help with further projects too.... namely cutting barrels and machining them. Next project (which is researched and has the gun totally stripped down is to fit a hop into my CO2 Dan Wesson Python and modify the spring to give me bang on 350 fps, I bloody love that gun but out the box it is totally useless even at 500+fps (which it currently shoots at) so hopefully this will make it skirmishable with decent accuracy and range :-)

 
Just wanted to prompt people into looking at

The skunkworks uk

On Facebook, it's run by a guy called Matt he's a top bloke and has produced some very beautiful projects

 
Just pondering..... how hard would it be to make an M203 shell version of the Kel-Tec KSG or UTS 15? The Kel-Tec would be better for collecting the spent shells as they eject downwards and would suit a lefty better too. Obviously it would be a big beasty so plastic is the only way forward. I'd love to have a go at something like this.

 
It would be more than a "big beasty" mate - it would be a fucking monster! I'm overwhelmed by foreseeable problems, I mean, basically you'd be R&D-ing a new gun from the ground up, but I'd love to see it done :wub:

 
maybe just a single magazined shotgun would be easier. Would probably involve buying one of the shell eject shottys and copying everything to make it take 40mm shells. Think it would be way more effort than it was worth but would be damn'd cool if it had a twin fed magazine.

this is a home made pump action China Lake:

 
after many weeks of pulling my hair out i have finally done it :-

C1AB7301-2016-4EF1-98D2-7ACBBC781D26_zpsfm2k4hdl.jpg


wtf is it i hear you ask .... inside its:-

86C24B03-7186-4927-8693-8E3ACE15011E_zpsjqeg1a70.jpg


6BEDDF2D-15B6-4C2E-B780-9325DAFF6C9B_zpsw93u9ih8.jpg


to sum it up its a IR "firefly" (beacon/strobe effect) with smart control, that means during day light it shuts down to save power :D

this is only my first version ... i can program more led's to it if i want :D

 
^^I'm waiting on some battery trays, AA & 18650, to build something similar with a motor inside, supported by dense foam, to also make a quiet noise. I'm going to fit it inside a Soviet infantryman's torch, to match era with my NVG:

IMAG0371.jpg

It will not be smart though, just a pair of pushbuttons inside the screw lid to switch the LED and motor on/off. I was thinking that I may add a visible light LED and buzzer and attempt to use a key finder fob to wirelessly switch those on/off, because in my design the blinking IR LED is just to help me find the poxy thing in the dark and (for those who have joined us recently) the quiet motor sound will be just to distract from the quiet sound my NVG makes. But a more obvious distraction device built in would make the thing potentially a lot more useful. I'm not at all sure how well soldering the receiver antenna of the key fob to the container will actually work however, because in low power circuits like that, afaik if they are encased in a metal box that is usually connected to the earth rail, and the earth rail is the opposite pole of the circuit from the antenna.

If anyone knows this stuff for sure, any help would be gratefully appreciated.

 
So the larger of the 2 trays arrived this am but, when I thought about it, I realised that both battery trays wouldn't fit inside the tube with everything else, so I decided to go with putting the 18650 in a tray, because that will need to come out for recharging, and soldering some bullet connectors to AAA batteries for the motor. I decided to test that I had read the destructions properly and build it with a red LED first, so I wouldn't have to get me NVG out to see it working/not. And this is the result:


I spose I ought to be pleased that it does do something...​
but it never occurred to me that when I read "1Hz" it would mean 'on' and blink 'off' 1/s because... unnnnnnngh :P why would you ffs!?!

This is what I'm working to:

Flasher_1_Hz_diag.jpg
Does anyone know what values of Ra, Rb, and C i should be using for 'off' and blink 'on' at approx 1Hz?​

What values did you use for the fast blink, Sp00n?

 
Does anyone know what values of Ra, Rb, and C i should be using for 'off' and blink 'on' at approx 1Hz?
I've experimented with making blinker circuits in the past- general rule of thumb is lower capacitor value = faster blink. If you can get your hands on a capacitor with a lower farad value that should work.

I once used a very tiny 2200pF capacitor in a blinker circuit which gave the LED a strobe effect. You can get them from here.

Careful with it though, I once accidentally reversed the polarity and it burst spectacularly for such a small capacitor.

 
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What values did you use for the fast blink, Sp00n?
Mine is using a attiny13a, basically a programmable chip. The resistor is across the diode to allows me to use the diode as a light detector, and shut down the chip to save power :D

 
The thing is, i don't want it to blink faster, i want it to be 'off' and blink 'on' momentarily. It must be possible... but if I use a larger capacitor with the circuit as is, that will just make it take longer between blinks 'off'.

 
The thing is, i don't want it to blink faster, i want it to be 'off' and blink 'on' momentarily. It must be possible... but if I use a larger capacitor with the circuit as is, that will just make it take longer between blinks 'off'.
kipkay used to have a schematic on how to do this, but its been taken off his webby :angry: , but the youtube video still exsists :wacko:

 
if you watch it to around 2min 20's you can see him assemble the cct

 
Thanks mate!

I got it working using a 2 x 22KΩ in series as Rb and 2 x [SIZE=14.3999996185303px]22KΩ in parallel as Ra which gives about 1.3Hz and approx 53% on vs off cycle. A mate on fb suggested i get an app, which helped :lol: But the way i've put it together isn't very good for the tin, so I'll have another go at it some other time.[/SIZE]

 
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