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Battery Charge Error

my entirely scientific internet based diagnosis is going to have to be it's a problem with the top of the sticker, the bit where it says "nuprol"

this is where the power of a proper battery checker (i use an etronix battery doctor but other brands/types are available) as the ability to confirm that a batteries cells are all properly charged and balanced is going to really take the headache out of figuring out what's gone wrong here.

i've seen a common issue with some cheaper chargers being one of the cell charging circuits goes which means for a 3 cell it'll maybe skip cell 2 whilst charging cells 1 and 3, or maybe it'll charge a 2 cell fine but skip cell 3 of an 11.1

personally i'd go with the broken record style advice of looking at getting either a battery checker, or a decent charger (the often recommended one being the imax b6ac) or tbh both for extra peace of mind.

 
Haha I knew Nuprol would’ve come in to it!
If only I’d of found this forum prior to getting into our hobby.. 

You know, Nuprol being Barry White and all I’ve recently bought Specna E12 and my old Nuprol Delta has a better build quality.

Confusing times. Anyhow, thanks for the advice I will get a new charger.  

 
my entirely scientific internet based diagnosis is going to have to be it's a problem with the top of the sticker, the bit where it says "nuprol"

this is where the power of a proper battery checker (i use an etronix battery doctor but other brands/types are available) as the ability to confirm that a batteries cells are all properly charged and balanced is going to really take the headache out of figuring out what's gone wrong here.

i've seen a common issue with some cheaper chargers being one of the cell charging circuits goes which means for a 3 cell it'll maybe skip cell 2 whilst charging cells 1 and 3, or maybe it'll charge a 2 cell fine but skip cell 3 of an 11.1

personally i'd go with the broken record style advice of looking at getting either a battery checker, or a decent charger (the often recommended one being the imax b6ac) or tbh both for extra peace of mind.
Adolf, which is the charger to go for that’s under 50£? 

 
Sweet still looking for a place that has one in stock! 

 
Cant recommend Sky RC chargers enough, beats the B6 by miles (in fact most B6's are just cheap clones, my genuine played up), hence I looked around. I have 2 of these, a single and a double and they are light years beyond the B6

 
Cant recommend Sky RC chargers enough, beats the B6 by miles (in fact most B6's are just cheap clones, my genuine played up), hence I looked around. I have 2 of these, a single and a double and they are light years beyond the B6
skyrc make the b6 ?

 
They do but the SKY RC range is easier to use (its probably using a B6 inside), talks to you, and does a load of safety checks. It has all the functions of the B6 but better presented and easier to use. 

Also the majority of B6's are clones

 
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You can do some basic maths to see how far out of spec the charger is.

Charge current (amps - A or mA)
Battery capacity (Ah or mAh)

You have to convert both units to be similar. Batteries are normally displayed in mAh on the label 1300mAh in the case of your 11.1v one there. Charge current might be displayed as Ah (1.2) or mAh (1200).

1300 / 1200 = 1.083 hours about 60ish minutes.

Equally 1.3 / 1.2 = 1.083


B6 chargers are decent enough, Personally I'd go with a B6AC as they transport a bit better and you can pick up a C5 replacement cable for a lot cheaper than a broken power brick.

You can use any Lipo charger that uses banana plugs and the JST-XH plug (little white plug on the battery). At the very worst you will have to swap the polarity on the banana plugs for airsoft - The charger should tell you this needs doing, and it only applies to tamiya connections. Deans are always wired for the correct polarity for airsoft and RC. JST connectors are always wired the same as well.

Unfortunately with CV19 kicking about it's a bad time to buy and prices are up, Even on fake models like this one.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Blue-iMAX-B6-AC-B-6AC-Lipo-NiMH-3S-RC-Battery-Balance-Charger-of-RC-hobby/184271974926?epid=27003298903&hash=item2ae777320e:g:llwAAOSwxe5eqUbi

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-5m-Clover-Leaf-UK-Mains-Power-Cable-Lead-with-13A-Fuse-C5-Cloverleaf-Dell-HP/174266273298?hash=item2893144e12:g:fcwAAOSw0sVeqf7c


 

Don't expect a B6 charger to be any faster if yours is in spec.

Typically batteries are only rated for 1C charging. That means that you can charge at an amperage equal to the capacity.

So a 1300mAh battery can be charged at 1.3 amps for a 1 hour charge.

Do not confuse the numbers on the battery -

S is the number of cells - 2S - 7.4v, 3S - 11.1v

C can be 2 values - Charge rate or discharge rate depending on how it is written.

When you see 25C it is in reference to Discharge rate. Just like your 11.1v, It is most often written as 25C/50C.

1300mAh factored to Ah (1.3) multiplied by the discharge rate gives you your discharge amperage. 1.3x25 = 32.5 Amps continuous discharge and 1.3x50 = 65 Amps burst (2-3 seconds).


Giant power are known for having a higher than average charge rate. Take a look at this battery.

https://www.componentshop.co.uk/7-4v-2200mah-35c-continuous-discharge-lipo-battery.html


 

Specs say 7.4v 35C/70C 2200mAh 5C.

Ergo:

2200mAh factored = 2.2Ah.

2.2Ah charged at 2.2 amps is a 1C standard 1 hour charge. This battery can take a 5C charge.

2.2 amps x5 = 11 amps charge current max.

2.2Ah @ 11 amps is 60minutes/5 = 12 minute charge time.

Output amperage is also insane on them

2.2 x 35 = 77amps continuous and 154 amps burst.



Lastly a B6 charger does have an advantage over those dumb chargers - The B6 will tell you the reason it's refusing to charge.

Lipo chemistry is unstable. If it's not kept in the correct tolerances it breaks down and becomes a danger to itself and anything else it's near to.


You can discharge a lipo lower than the safe limit, In doing so nothing will happen. Once you come to charge that battery you will find a B6 will tell you to fuck right off. This is because discharging past the safe voltage level causes the chemistry to break down, Charging it from this state may cause a fire, Trusting the charger is the very best thing to do in this instance. Do not try to add voltage to it like some people will advise... It's like sticking your dick in a car door and telling the missus she's put on a few stone, You will get bitten, and it won't be pretty. And more over it's all your fault for not been sensible.

Equally overcharging can cause similar problems.

 

 
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