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The 'What have you just bought' Thread

My wallet is in pain...

A&K M4 Upgrades

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Firestorm mosfet (Installed last night)
+1 for the dinky little fet - £10 delivered with built in fuse etc.....

actually +2 - seems bloody good under stress tests

good bit of wire supplied - fancy box

highly recommend them - if anybody needs a cheap good fet ready to go you won't go wrong with them

even build your own 3034 would cost ya say £5 with getting bits n bobs & wire, so for a tenner - good call m8

I just ordered up some more deans & bits for my own fet's but the firestorm fet I am well pleased with

it is non-AB fet but tbh most of time AB is not needed for most builds unless you are really going nutz

 
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+1 for the dinky little fet - £10 delivered with built in fuse etc.....

actually +2 - seems bloody good under stress tests

good bit of wire supplied - fancy box

highly recommend them - if anybody needs a cheap good fet ready to go you won't go wrong with them

even build your own 3034 would cost ya say £5 with getting bits n bobs & wire, so for a tenner - good call m8

I just ordered up some more deans & bits for my own fet's but the firestorm fet I am well pleased with

it is non-AB fet but tbh most of time AB is not needed for most builds unless you are really going nutz
This is just it. It's going in a CQB version which will be my primary and after some testing fires, it's lovely!

When i eventually get another project, it'll be a full Mosfet with a programmable burst on the semi, but until then this is A) Cheap and B) perfect for starting out.

The wires themselves are about 19 gauge i think so i would deffinately look to beef them up to 18 or 16 later.

 
The wires themselves are about 19 gauge i think so i would deffinately look to beef them up to 18 or 16 later.
Thought they were a bit thicker sure it said 16awg on wire supplied - you can't always go by the outer thickness - it is the actual wire itself

or Conductive Surface Area malarky that counts......

switch wire was very thin - but I actually use a tiny bit thinner twin ptfe wire for trigger/switch signal wire

cheap silver wire that fits in almost any gun:

http://www.taiwangun.com/en/2-meter-wire-with-low-resistance-ipower?from=listing&campaign-id=14

(cheaper 2m length seems the same)

http://www.taiwangun.com/en/1-8-meter-wire-with-low-resistance?from=listing&campaign-id=14

(1.8m but same sort of stuff)

They are a good price for decent wire for most builds - thinner but stiffer insulation than fatty 16awg silicone turnigy wire

much cheaper than buying the Modify brand over here - well next time anybody does a TWG order

easier to fit in tight v2 boxes than silicone, especially where motor is

v3 boxes wire is external so you can run thicker stuff outside the box

Always deans, solder the "bends" of motor connectors - they can blow like a fuse when bent on M4's so I "carefully" dab solder on the elbow/bends

(dab of solder inside/outside of bend - hold connector upwards to avoid solder running down motor connector end though)

These are the 2 points where you encounter the most resistance & drop in "juice efficiency" (check connectors are tight fit on motor of course)

Ultra thick as possible wire is great but them connectors - the connector bends on M4's are so weak, plus not easy to solder wires direct to motor on M4's

Run thicker wire with the least amount of joins/breaks as possible - any joins must be as solid as possible or more loss from resistance in joins

 
^^I would always recommend soldering the motor connections - a soldered joint is always lower resistance than a spade connector, even when the spade connector is tightened on with a squeeze from pliers.

 
^^I would always recommend soldering the motor connections - a soldered joint is always lower resistance than a spade connector, even when the spade connector is tightened on with a squeeze from pliers.
101% agree if you are happy with setup/motor - solder is best but depends on ya gun/box

V3 - nice n easy to do/remove - did solder motor on AK12, can always remove frame/motor option to work on box

V2 - bit more of git to do - so soldered the connectors with extra solder on bends on recent DSG FH

(or would have to keep desolder/resolder motor to work on box)

Some guy did solder a v2 motor and had bananna type plug/socket in pistol grip

but space could get tight for motor in there plus it's another join

Hence did the connectors still - ensured tight fit on motor & extra solder on 90 degree bends - damn V2's

 
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i have just received a "Tactical Flashlight Q5 LED Light Bulb Foregrip Rail Aluminum Outdoor Heavy Duty" its weighty, not heavy, and nice and bright ... just wish the on/off button was a pressure pad not a clicky on/off/strobe button.

​also received the CR2 batteries and charger from amazon .. that was very interesting, managed to get guaranteed by 1pm next day delivery ... for free :D (no i am not a prime customer)

 
101% agree if you are happy with setup/motor - solder is best but depends on ya gun/box

V3 - nice n easy to do/remove - did solder motor on AK12, can always remove frame/motor option to work on box

V2 - bit more of git to do - so soldered the connectors with extra solder on bends on recent DSG FH

(or would have to keep desolder/resolder motor to work on box)

Some guy did solder a v2 motor and had bananna type plug/socket in pistol grip

but space could get tight for motor in there plus it's another join

Hence did the connectors still - ensured tight fit on motor & extra solder on 90 degree bends - damn V2's
The way I would do it (if I was into M4's which I'm not :lol: ) is to not bother curving the wire round in the same way it does when you have a spade connector on the end, but rather to cut the wire so it goes straight down to the motor terminals and solder them 'upside down' if you see what i mean.

 
They are a bit of a bollock ache v2's

There are a couple of ways to route the wires in box and in grip

most go for the standard wire each side in box but if using much thicker wire and 2 x fet wire's say on a rear wired box

it can get a bit cramped by motor, so options are widen box at rear and run both motor wires down back, only fet wires go across motor entry in box

G&G default is to run two seperate wires out of both sides of box, then run both at back of grip rather than either side of motor

The DSG I ran both at back of box, both at back of grip, one laid low on negative terminal of motor, then positive ran the long way round motor on top of negative

Reason being there is a blank or plate on bottom of grip motor plate preventing a shorter direct route - could cut a groove but routed it as was allowed....

It did actually lay quite well - was pleased coz thought it would never fit in on such thicker wire - but it did go in there quite easily in the end - well reasonably easy

Still a bollock ache all the same, luckily there are a few options but yes you can solder on a v2 but is regarded as more of pain to remove & service box

where as v3's remove frame/motor cage, and you got access to box - even solder/desolder the switch wires without needing to open box

fitting a fet on a v3 & upgrade wire can all be done without opening the box - though as we know it don't hurt to crack it open and aoe,seals,grease to ensure she is fet & juice ready......

Yes only worked on a few v3's but I do like them as being a bit more user friendly to work on especially electrical wise & test purposes with motor cage on and test away

deffo an improvement on the older v2's in my humble opinion.

But that don't mean I prefer AK's over the Fords of Airsoft - M4's

(I ain't joining the dark side just yet but admit they got a better build/layout)

 
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Just picked up a DPCU shirt (AUSCAM) for the start of my Australian loadout. Currently waiting to see if I can get some DPCU trousers from a fleebay seller in Australia as even with postage it works out cheaper then any other alternative I have seen so far. :unsure:

 
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My custom Moonman patch arrived from Stitch Me Up earlier this week. Just got my hands on it today. Love it!

A1KUxAn.jpg


 
I'm going to get a patch that says " Cramped Bed Ted". I'll leave the image upto your imaginations :lol: :lol:

 
I want one that says "East Mids Death Squad" but so far I haven't been able to find anyone to design the logo - a hooded skeletal Death drawing the string of a longbow, but facing forwards so the arrow head is massive in forced perspective, not sideways like archers are almost always portrayed, but also not looking like a Scooby Doo villain...

 
I want one that says "East Mids Death Squad" but so far I haven't been able to find anyone to design the logo - a hooded skeletal Death drawing the string of a longbow, but facing forwards so the arrow head is massive in forced perspective, not sideways like archers are almost always portrayed, but also not looking like a Scooby Doo villain...
I've give it a crack for you mate. Could you email me a rough sketch so I've got an idea to work from?

 
Tokyo Marui Recoil Shock Recce rifle

Magpul AFG2

Magpul XTM rail panels

Marui swivel sling adapter

This is going to be an expensive project, glad i'm not doing the tech stuff :)

 
Oooh I may have sent a slightly shirty response back to the Australian seller after all I got back from him was 'no'.

 
Tokyo Marui Recoil Shock Recce rifle

Magpul AFG2

Magpul XTM rail panels

Marui swivel sling adapter

This is going to be an expensive project, glad i'm not doing the tech stuff :)
Im jealous. I keep looking at the Tm recoils but can never make my mind up which one I want.
 
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