Rifle Doesn't Fire, Makes Weird Clicking Noise When Trigger Pulled, Video Included.

Hashe8848

Hashe8848

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I had stopped playing airsoft for multiple months after school started up again and I left my Nuprol Delta Pioneer Defender on my shelf for a good half a year, without ever testing it or moving it. I recently took it down only to find that it didn't shoot and only clicked weirdly like in the video. The battery was never plugged in over this period and I had charged it up several times after I discovered the problem to see if it fixed it, but to no avail. The only important thing I ever did to the gun was a spring upgrade, from stock to an M110, and I'm worried that this could've damaged the gearbox from putting a lot of pressure on it for so long. I've completely taken the gun apart as well as the entire gearbox but didn't find anything glaringly obvious and never found a good fix, so I've found a working replacement gearbox which I was planning on buying, but I'm also worried that it might be a motor issue which is causing this and that buying a replacement gearbox wouldn't fix the problem, so I'm asking if anyone has seen this problem before and what has caused it, and whether or not replacing the gearbox will fix this, or maybe it is a simpler problem with an easier fix.

If you need any other info let me know.



View attachment 63736
 
Before delving into the guts of the gun itself - try removing the stock tube which is retained by a bolt that goes through to the spring guide - retest with the stock tube detached and then come back  to us.

Also make sure you are testing with a fully charged battery - an 11.1v if you have one. If you have a multi-meter test the voltage coming off any batts you are using.

 
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Hashe8848 said:
The only important thing I ever did to the gun was a spring upgrade, from stock to an M110
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Is it a quick change spring on that gearbox?

If you held the gearbox nozzle up on a spring change - so the piston fell to the back of the gearbox, and if the sector gear was partially engaged at the same time then you can get into a position where the sector is engaging at the front of the piston rather than the back. This will attempt to push the piston back further than it has travel for and lock up like the video.

The solution is to remove the gearbox from the gun, then remove the QC spring guide and spring. The motor should already be off the gearbox as it's a V2.

You then poke about at the gearbox from the outside. You need to pull the piston back far enough that you can spin the gearbox a little. And find the point where the piston can travel all the way forwards, At this point put the spring and spring guide back in (piston fully forwards position).

The other method would be to release the anti reversal latch inside the gearbox. This can be tricky if you don't know the internal layout of a V2 gearbox, but it can be done on an assembled gearbox with a decent thin screwdriver through the motor hole.

It's the part lettered "J" and needs to be pulled down away from the bevel gear "I3". The action will be a slight rotation towards the backside of the gearbox.

gearbox-diagram.png


Don't put a fully charged 11.1v into it... The piston is locked, it'll do far more harm than good, and could potentially strip the piston or crack the gears. In fact stop trying to shoot it at all until you know the piston is free again.

 
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You'll need to open up the gearbox as Iceni said.  Try to pull back the anti-reversal latch or take out the spring and reset the gears.

DON'T use an 11.1 battery.

 
Update - following what Iceni said, spring and guide removed, going to try to get the piston to move forwards.

View attachment 63739

Rotated the I3 gear until it stopped getting blocked by the non return latch, then I could freely move the piston all the way forward by hand.

View attachment 63740

Any hints on the next step I should take?

 
If it's all the way forwards then put the spring and guide back in. It needs to go in with the piston still in the fully forwards position.

With the guide back in you can rotate the gearbox by hand using a screwdriver on the bevel "I3" taking it one anti reversal step at a time. It'll take some effort but the gun will fully cycle if you have everything right. If it locks again then there is a problem somewhere.

 
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Iceni said:
If it's all the way forwards then put the spring and guide back in. It needs to go in with the piston still in the fully forwards position.

With the guide back in you can rotate the gearbox by hand using a screwdriver on the bevel "I3" taking it one anti reversal step at a time. It'll take some effort but the gun will fully cycle if you have everything right.
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By one step at a time you men i should rotate it in the direction in which the anti reversal blocks it, and unlock it and spin one tooth at a time?

 
Just keep going one step at a time letting the latch hold. You'll see the piston start to move back, It'll get quite hard to make the next step as you get closer to a full cycle, but it should cycle eventually.

 
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Iceni said:
Just keep going one step at a time letting the latch hold. You'll see the piston start to move back, It'll get quite hard to make the next step as you get closer to a full cycle, but it should cycle eventually.
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ok sure ill see how it goes.

Ok, with incredible difficulty(turning that small gear with the whole spring working against you is damn hard, you were right) i got it fully rotated and it fired off back to the forward position. Should i reassemble and see if it works?

 
Well if anything this gave me respect for those motors cause that was hard work. I'll let you know what happens when its together

 
ok so i put the gun together and pulled the trigger, heard the motor spin and a few clicks, and then the piston got stuck in the same position as before and im back to the clicking like at the beginning, ill do the same thing again and see if it helps.

Also, is the motor pinion meant to spin freely, because mine rotates in steps and has some resistance.

 
Hashe8848 said:
[SIZE=12.6px]...mine rotates in steps and has some resistance.[/SIZE]
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Yes, that's normal and means its a good motor.

Since you could cycle it by hand that would point to a bad battery.   Even if it reads 7.4v it might not have enough current under load.

I guess you haven't opened the gearbox to see condition of things?

 
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Looks a bit dry but otherwise OK.

Maybe a little grease on the gears and piston slides before closing it up.

Seems like you'll need to get a new battery...

 
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What are you using to charge the battery? Because that battery doesn't look to have been balanced charged. With 4.1v in one cell and 3.3v in the other. Both cells should be showing a similar voltage.

Either it's a battery with a dead cell or the charger isn't right.

 
Iceni said:
What are you using to charge the battery? Because that battery doesn't look to have been balanced charged. With 4.1v in one cell and 3.3v in the other. Both cells should be showing a similar voltage.

Either it's a battery with a dead cell or the charger isn't right.
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Charger should be good the people who I got the gun from recommended it to me.

View attachment 63745

 
Do we have another case of one of those chargers with a dead circuit?

I've heard a few stories of those types doing that as well as having had one myself do the exact same thing.

the way to tell is if one or more of the led's doesnt change colour when charging.

also i'm guessing you gave that gearbox a clean before you photographed it? there should be some grease in there.....

 
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