Mauser SR Pro Tactical Tuning

[rolfinator]

Stock trigger is fine with the light spring in the Mancraft. However I have opened the trigger up and reshaped and polished the sear faces. They're bloody awful as stock. It's not a zero trigger by any means, but it's now a lot more consistent with less creep.

Yeah, I saw in your other thread that you polished the sear faces, but I think I remember you wanted to buy a completely different trigger unit...

However, I thought about buying a zero trigger in addition, but they are about 130 euros, which seems to be very expensive (considering the rest of my tuning parts...)

 

[Hangtight]

I did consider a zero trigger, but once I'd decided to go with the Mancraft it wasn't necessary. €130 is a lot of money for a crisper trigger break.

It takes about an hour to file the sear  faces flat and square, square up the ends and put a micro chamfer on the break edges, then polish. Use a decent lithium grease and try to retain your cool while getting the thing back together.

 

[rolfinator]

I did consider a zero trigger, but once I'd decided to go with the Mancraft it wasn't necessary. €130 is a lot of money for a crisper trigger break.

It takes about an hour to file the sear  faces flat and square, square up the ends and put a micro chamfer on the break edges, then polish. Use a decent lithium grease and try to retain your cool while getting the thing back together.

Harr, harr. Then I will let my craftmanship skills flow

Thanks for the detailed description!

 

[Hangtight]

Just spend a while looking at the mechanism before you pick up a file, just so you are sure you're not putting in an angle that'll try to set the trigger off once it's loaded rather than be completely neutral or even actually holding itself on slightly. You're looking for adjacent sear surfaces to bear on each other across the full width of the surface.

Because the sears aren't hardened steel but a fairly decent, hard alloy don't worry about achieving a mirror polished finish. 1200 grit wet and dry abrasive paper will be fine.

And it's the piston sear reset springs that are the difficult ones to get back in place as you close the trigger box up.

 

[rolfinator]

Thanks for all the tips! Doing a little nasty work is way better than paying 130 bucks

And it's good to have Youtube for things like this. Even videos to properly disassemble and re-assemble the trigger box^^