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Quick Questions & Simple Answers.

Compact red dot that will hold zero on a gbbr? Sig romeo ish size, lower third rise, recommendations... (sorry for no red text, I do t know how to do it in the mobile version)
GBBR will shake the shit out of any cheap optics, I'd assume. But if you don't want to invest a lot of money I'd buy a Feyachi whatever from amazon or an Aim-O T1. But in long term you should invest into something more durable. But you have to open your wallet, though.

 
Compact red dot that will hold zero on a gbbr? Sig romeo ish size, lower third rise, recommendations... (sorry for no red text, I do t know how to do it in the mobile version)
Holy warrior t2 mate. No problem on a gbbr so far. Probably the most accurate copy too. Although the trades are kinda engraved not embossed. Well priced from wgc shop. 

 
GBBR will shake the shit out of any cheap optics, I'd assume. But if you don't want to invest a lot of money I'd buy a Feyachi whatever from amazon or an Aim-O T1. But in long term you should invest into something more durable. But you have to open your wallet, though.
No issues with opening the wallet but there needs to be something in it, bloody kids keep emptying it. ;)

Thanks for the advice though, I'll look up the feyachi.

Holy warrior t2 mate. No problem on a gbbr so far. Probably the most accurate copy too. Although the trades are kinda engraved not embossed. Well priced from wgc shop. 
I'll look it up, thanks.

 
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The threads on the muzzle of my WE makarov are knackered so the mock surpressor can fall off very easily. Would it be a stupid idea to try using thread lock to keep it in place? I'm thinking blue so I can still take the can off to strip the gun down 

 
The threads on the muzzle of my WE makarov are knackered so the mock surpressor can fall off very easily. Would it be a stupid idea to try using thread lock to keep it in place? I'm thinking blue so I can still take the can off to strip the gun down 
Thread lock isn't going to work very well if the threads aren't engaged properly, perhaps try some PTFE tape to build it up a bit?

 
Before I order parts and take it apart, does anyone happen to know if the Cyma Blue Edition MP5s (i.e. [SIZE=12pt]CM.041J) have gearbox's with quick change springs? Thanks![/SIZE]


Well, after a little bit of time with a hex key -I can confidently state yes - the [SIZE=12pt]CM.041J's which are currently being shipped do indeed have gearboxes with a quick change spring function![/SIZE]

 
People would want them, but perhaps not at a price that would make it worth your while...
Dunno, what are they worth, I don’t have a clue.

I know slabs of decent cartridges are pushing £65 now (that’s 250 cartridges)

 
Dunno, what are they worth, I don’t have a clue.

I know slabs of decent cartridges are pushing £65 now (that’s 250 cartridges)
But you can get spent carts for basically nothing, and most people would be happy with those if all they were doing was sticking them in a bandolier or similar.

Recrimping spent carts would probably be more cost effective both in materials and labour than taking all the workings out of live carts.

 
Does anyone think they’re might be a market for de-activated shotgun cartridges?

All internals removed, primer correctly neutralised.

Cartridge on the left is the deact

View attachment 92277

View attachment 92278
I don’t trust people.

Visually they look the same, and on closer inspection it would not be easy to know the difference between an emptied  cartridge that still has a primer and a genuine deactivated inert cartridge.

Even with the primer still in place there’s not likely to be a negligent discharge without some effort, but I’d be wary of someone just telling me they are fully inert.

There are valid uses for an inert dummy, but that can include clear markings and unusual colours or a film prop etc where they would possibly at the moment want manufactured dummy inerts rather than modifications.

Unless there’s a real need for close up realism then I’d prefer someone’s dressing up to be based on used cartridges or to have a hole where the primers cap would be 

https://www.cobra-ts.eu/en/blog-article/inert-deactivated-or-neutralized-ammunition-what-is-it-and-what-is-the-law-saying-about-it

 
I've re-crimped used carts that I've filled with rice.  I left the used primers though.  The weight and fired primer made misidentification harder. 

Training brass rounds need to have holes in them.  

As an aside, a friend bought a load of flood damaged carts at auction.  The auction house staff had cleaned them up with WD40 or similar.  Only about one in twenty actually went off.  

 
I've re-crimped used carts that I've filled with rice.  I left the used primers though.  The weight and fired primer made misidentification harder. 

Training brass rounds need to have holes in them.  

As an aside, a friend bought a load of flood damaged carts at auction.  The auction house staff had cleaned them up with WD40 or similar.  Only about one in twenty actually went off.  
Yeah, I wouldn’t have bought them to use. Oil  soaked into the primer (WD40) will prevent it going off. Never mind the smokeless powder (which is very small paper-impregnated squares)

I only shoot clays so they all need to go off ?

 
Will any m4 style rail fit any m4 style gun? I'm looking for a rail for a krytac trident spr mk2

 
Possibly silly question:  I'm looking for a new 7.4v battery with a Deans connector, preferably a fairly small stick one that'll fit any of my guns. 

My usual places seem to be out of stock - any recommended retailers?   As I seem to be good at killing / abusing batteries I'd rather they were disposably cheap, and preferably > 1200mAH
Also: Is there a difference between RC batteries and airsoft, apart from maybe the C rating?  


 
Also: Is there a difference between RC batteries and airsoft, apart from maybe the C rating?  


Can't help on stock levels but as far as LiPo for RC and LiPo for Airsoft...no. No difference. RC ones may be of slightly higher quality, if they have Tamiya connectors they'll be opposite polarity. Otherwise, a 2 cell, 7.4v LiPo is a 2 cell 7.4v LiPo whether it says RC or Airsoft on the side.

 
Can't help on stock levels but as far as LiPo for RC and LiPo for Airsoft...no. No difference. RC ones may be of slightly higher quality, if they have Tamiya connectors they'll be opposite polarity. Otherwise, a 2 cell, 7.4v LiPo is a 2 cell 7.4v LiPo whether it says RC or Airsoft on the side.
Ah yeah, it's the Tamiya polarity thing that must have been nagging in the back of my mind. 
Not a problem as it'll be Deans
Thanks! 
 

 
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