Src G36c Gen 2

[Liam1992]

Hey Guys, 

So a friend and I are looking at getting back in to the whole airsoft game this summer (post Corona) and we're getting all our gear sorted including an SRC G36c. 

Its currently totally stock, bar a Madbull Hop Bucking I had spare which we've slotted on. 

It hasn't been used in years, but as memory serves it suffered from semi auto lock fairly frequently but other than that it wasn't a bad runner, competitive at least if not world beating. 

So, what should we do with it? 

Its currently wired to Tamiya's; would you recommend rewiring to Deans Connectors? We have a couple of spare LiPo's wired to Deans so no extra cost there. Would this look to sort some of the semi auto lock issues out compared to an 8.4nimh?

MOSFET installed perhaps? 

The motor, piston, gears etc are all standard.. So any suggestions there are gratefully accepted!

Just looking for some advice on where, if anywhere, to invest for maximum bang for buck or so to speak to take it up a level. 

 

[Ad_]

I always use Deans connectors in my AEGs as they offer lower resistance than Tamiyas/mini Tamiyas, which will help improve the ROF. Automotive blade type fuses offer lower resistance than the cylindrical types so it's also worth considering fitting one of those.

A MOSFET is worthwhile too (just a basic one is fine), however it will mean rewiring the gun (also depending on the current wiring you may want to replace the wire with something better quality while you're doing this). It's well worth it though as it'll stop the trigger contacts burning out and it will improve both the trigger response & ROF due to the lower resistance and faster switch speed. Be sure to thoroughly clean the trigger contacts with some isopropyl alcohol as well. Clean the motor brushes & commutator with some IPA too.

As for the semi-auto lock up issue, that usually occurs because the cut-off lever (the part that disconnects the trigger contacts when firing in semi auto) sometimes stops in a half engaged position and blocks the trigger; this happens when the trigger is released too early, before it can fully complete the firing cycle. Switching to full auto allows you to fire again because the cut-off lever gets disengaged & moved out of the way to allow full auto fire. Anything that increases the ROF should help with this, as will being more careful when shooting ?

Aside from that, it depends on the existing parts in the gun. Check to make sure that the motor and gears are in good condition and properly shimmed, check the air seal between the piston/cylinder/cylinder head/nozzle/barrel etc. and correct any issues. Upgrading the air seal is one of the main things I try to improve, to allow use of a weaker spring (which in turn means better trigger response and ROF) to achieve the desired muzzle velocity - I usually try to achieve ~330fps with Guarder SP90 springs, although reaching that does typically require upgrading the entire piston/cylinder/nozzle/hop/barrel set plus some luck.