RIF Shooting 2 on single Fire

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TheKempyy

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Hi all,

I have recently upgraded my Firehawk and tested her out at Dogtag Airsoft this past Sunday, in the afternoon I noticed my RIF was firing two shots whilst Smi fire was selected. It was fine for the morning, but at the start of a new game in the afternoon I noticed it changed.

I run her off 11.1V, which I think might be the issue? As when I changed her to 7.4v LIPO she ran fine. To confirm, it is not misfeeding two bbs, it is actually firing twice when the trigger is pressed once.

Thoughts?

I've changed to motor, gear ratio (Focusing on more speed - 16:1), spring,  inner barrel.

 
yes it is running 11.1 is causing it, basically when it cuts the motor after the first shot it's spinning so fast it'll fire a second shot before it stops.

basically your options are to either go back to 7.4 and lose a little speed, or go for an etu with active braking that'll stop the motor.

firing double is ok mechanically, well at least it's not going to do any damage beyond the strain of running that fast in the first place. so unless you do cqb and need proper semi i wouldn't worry too much.

 
Thanks buddy.

Any recommendations on the ETU? Realistically I brought the rifle as a back up smg -type rif (As I have an AR as a primary). But Sunday we played semi-only and got in a bit of trouble for it, so had to sit out. 

I've got both batteries, so for now I can switch between the two depending on the game.

 
TheKempyy said:
Thanks buddy.

Any recommendations on the ETU? Realistically I brought the rifle as a back up smg -type rif (As I have an AR as a primary). But Sunday we played semi-only and got in a bit of trouble for it, so had to sit out. 

I've got both batteries, so for now I can switch between the two depending on the game.
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tbh unless you really need it i'd say theres not much point, it'll be pricey especially for a primary.

if its a semi auto game i just go pistol only these days.

 
I got the same when I ran my V2 on a mahoosive 11.1v high-C lipo.  When you look at the way a standard trigger trolley works, you're relying on movements of a fraction of a mm breaking the contact.  I'd expect you're getting arcing on your contacts as well.

You're going to have to spend more money on a ETU / active braking MOSFET, or spend less money on 7.4V lipos.

Although I await @Sitting Duck's novella with interest. ;)

 
I'm more amazed people can fit 11.1v in the stock tube of a FireHawk

coz I needed a hammer to fit a 9.9v LiFe in there (3 cell)

actually I tried a thinner walled stock tube from a SRC but still was too tight

perfect gun for a stubby stock

TBH the std reg FH would have likely had a 8 tooth bevel gear making 18.65:1 run at 22:1

What the OP should done is fitted 13:1 gears, keep G&G Blue Motor & run on 7.4v

That won't pull 13:1 gears....

Leave off the Blue motor is what is in the HC05 DSG FireHawk pulling a m150+ spring

13:1's on a m105/110 will be a walk in the park hitting about 18rps

SHS blue metal piston, 13:1's £25 plus a better piston head maybe (AoE corrected)

£30 say plus maybe a basic £10 mosfet bits n bobs - say £50 should cover it all with o-ring nozzle

(maybe a solid steel bushing under spur gear)

That is basically what the first launch TopTech FireHawk's were - well 12:1's actually

 
If you want to keep the motor and gears and run the 11.1v and not spend the money on a Titan, you need to go for short stroke and stronger spring. 

 
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