Can you just merely replace the mosfet in a Gate Titan? meaning does it need to be programmed or anything in order to get full function of the features of the unit? I. E. Burst control, trigger control all that. Does it need programming or is that in a different chip?
Replacing the Fet on Titan
- Thread starter Rodeo
- Start date
Sneaky
AF-UK patch owner
- Sep 1, 2012
- 659
- 127
It does not need to be progammed in that sence. Depends on what you have paid for will dictate what setup options you have. The burst control is limited to three or five bb's under basic, if you have the advaned you have more options. Think about what you want from your RIF in regards of setup and performance etc. Best to make sure you do you research before parting with your money as there are many devices that do different things.
- Thread starter
- #3
well that's kind of what I'm doing I bought the fet just from mouser electronics I don't think it has any program at all in it here's a picture
View attachment 60648
And I messed up and it's a gen 3 that I bought and the gate Titan uses a Gen 2 mosfet if I'm correct.
View attachment 60648
And I messed up and it's a gen 3 that I bought and the gate Titan uses a Gen 2 mosfet if I'm correct.
Last edited by a moderator:
Adolf Hamster
Supporters
- Feb 1, 2018
- 7,058
- 2,233
Thats a new one 
Lozart
Supporters
- Jun 24, 2013
- 8,493
- 4,942
Interesting.
So if you're planning on replacing the FET itself then it's just a switch so it has no programming (that's done elsewhere on the PCB). What I would say though is that I really hope you have a good temperature controlled soldering iron with an incredibly fine point, low melt solder and good eyesight. That's a surface mount component that would normally be wave soldered onto the PCB so repairing it by hand is going to be tricky at best.
I assume you know for certain that it's only the FET that's blown and not other/more components?
Good luck with it and let us know how you get on.
- Thread starter
- #6
No I'm using SMD rework station I'm not completely ignorant when it comes to this stuff I'm pretty handy with it I just don't know all the technical stuff you know what I mean but what I did do is before trying to replace the fet, I went and I'm reworking the entire bottom board cuz that's what my problem is and it looks like maybe I may have found some traces where the solder may have just minutely flowed a little too far the last time I reflowed it little bit too much and I mean it was covered, covered up with flux and crap before I couldn't see it I'm not sure but it looks like there might be a trace or two that maybe I can rework and separate a little bit and maybe that might be my short. Is that little area right next to the screw. Theres little Trace between a cap and resistor it looks like it flowed down the trace a little bit and it's jumpin the two. Hey thanks you guys for all your help man I'll definitely touch back in and let you know how it went. I know this has to be my last time cuz I'm starting to melt my connectors lmfao.it still turns on and everything I put power to it the light comes on and everything I just have a continuity between the the positive and negative motor leads so I don't pull the trigger cuz I pull the trigger pops fuse so but without a battery without any power anything I have continuity between the two motor leads so that's where I'm at. Thanks guys I'll be back in touch here in about an hour or so as soon as I either screw this thing up or get it working it's only two hundred bucks right lol.oh and the shorts not in the wires I know for sure because that's why I'm in this trouble is I went and had to rewire the whole wiring harness anyway because it was getting too many Knicks so that's what started this whole issue was me rewiring the harness and it just open up this whole can of worms so I know it's not in the wires. I only mention it cuz I know somebody's going to say it's probably in your wires. LOL
View attachment 60673
View attachment 60674
View attachment 60673
View attachment 60674
Last edited by a moderator:
- Thread starter
- #7
hey guys it work man I had it working everything came on fine battery hookup light hook up hook it up to the programming card, hooked it up to pc everything is fine it was reading all the triggers everything was just fine right no shorts no dead shorts no open lines no continuity across where it shouldn't be. I pulled the trigger and pow it blew up what the hell is going on you guys now I have a short or continuity across the motor terminals again I didn't I before I pull the trigger please help
Lozart
Supporters
- Jun 24, 2013
- 8,493
- 4,942
Sounds like it was more than just the FET that blew originally.
If it was OK without the battery power (you say you checked the trigger sensor so I'd say there no issue there), then it's more likely somewhere in the power stage. Either the motor is pulling too much current for the FET you've fitted, there's another separate component issue, the motor is goosed, the wiring has an issue (I know you say you've changed it but that doesn't mean it doesn't still have a fault) or you've created a new board issue in trying to repair it. Without a full circuit diagram and the thing on a bench in front of me I can't really help any more than that.
- Thread starter
- #9
I have noticed that the motors both my motors my krytac 30000 and my G&G 18000 both of them without being in The AEG have continuity across the terminals as well.
Where is the onboard fuse in the Titan do you know?yeah I know I'm trying I'm looking everywhere for a diagram on the on the Titan they just they don't have it you know they haven't leaked it out yet because they don't want anybody working on it
UUUUUIIIIIGGGGHHHH!..I'm pulling my hair out
Last edited by a moderator:
mightyjebus
Members
- Dec 11, 2015
- 917
- 1,562
I can't tell you where the fuse IC is but looking at your board the 3rd vertical Cap looks brown which indicates it is blown. I also can't see the insulating washer underneath the screw and metal washer. Do you have one there?
I'm guessing because of the size of these boards it is multilayered so the internal sandwiched traces could have burned out if the Mosfet blew since it is switching current.
i'm not sure swapping the fuse would work anyway even if the cap and the internal traces are intact. The fuse is only doing its job of cutting off power when too much current is drawn. I'd test the motors first by attaching a battey direct to the motor to see if they spin, then look at continuity through the wires and check Polarity throughout the wiring loom.
If you are determined to change the fuse IC then stick the board under a microscope and record all the IC numbers and search on google to eventually find the fuse IC
I'm guessing because of the size of these boards it is multilayered so the internal sandwiched traces could have burned out if the Mosfet blew since it is switching current.
i'm not sure swapping the fuse would work anyway even if the cap and the internal traces are intact. The fuse is only doing its job of cutting off power when too much current is drawn. I'd test the motors first by attaching a battey direct to the motor to see if they spin, then look at continuity through the wires and check Polarity throughout the wiring loom.
If you are determined to change the fuse IC then stick the board under a microscope and record all the IC numbers and search on google to eventually find the fuse IC
Last edited by a moderator:
Lozart
Supporters
- Jun 24, 2013
- 8,493
- 4,942
OK, continuity is good, but what is the motors resistance? The Titan can be a bit picky about motors, for instance my upgraded Specna had a SHS High Torque motor and that gave up the ghost pretty quickly because of the active braking. Swapped it for an ASG Infinite 30K and it's been fine.
In terms of finding a circuit diagram, no - Gate don't want people trying to fix it themselves so you're probably not going to find one. At this point I'm sorry to say but you may just have to admit defeat unless you're happy for it to become an unending saga of wasted time and money.
