WhatsMyName
Members
- Aug 15, 2017
- 56
- 0
There are videos on it online so I'll keep it short.
You'll need:
3x leds (3mm water clear ultra bright blue)
3x 100Ohm resistors-optional
Cable and connectors
Old/cheap hop unit
Tracer bb's
Heat shrink
Some basic tools
How to:
Fit Your hop unit to decide on how to use available space. I fitted mine on the opposite to side of where bolt plate is.
Drill 3mm holes in space between hop chamber and feeding tube neck-this is very cruicial for Your gun to work.
Now test fit leds if they are flat headed just test drop a single bb down the feeding tube and glue leds in. I clipped my diodes, buffed them with a dremel and glued them in.
Solder them together in parallel(+to+,-to-),optionally put 100ohm resistor in front of each one. Wire to power source- I used £1 torch guts (3x1.2v AAA in a battery box running at 2.8V, leds operate at about 3V so I skipped the resistor part.
Alternative way of powering:
Wire leds in line(+to-,+to-...), solder 150ohm in front and plug to Your gun battery(if You run more that 9.6V as this will burn up over 9.9V.
Pros:
+Cheap (I spent £15)
+Doesnt affect gun's operation
+See where Your bb's are going at night
+Looks cool
+Use to lure and distract enemy
Cons:
-Enemy can trace You back
-If always on can be spotted if directly looked at (hint of blue down the barrel)
-Need to buy tracer bb's
Things to consider:
I used plastic SHS hop- it glows when leds are on and lets light "escape"
Pressure switch or wiring it to trigger/mosfet would make it less of a Tactical Traitor and more of a Tactical Tracer as it would be on only when needed.
Appologies to all for whom this tutorial is not sufficient enough-my phone died when posting first time and I just couldn't be bothered to write an exhausing essay on dropping current, resistance, soldering and all that...
View attachment 29450
View attachment 29453
View attachment 29454
View attachment 29455
View attachment 29456
View attachment 29457
You'll need:
3x leds (3mm water clear ultra bright blue)
3x 100Ohm resistors-optional
Cable and connectors
Old/cheap hop unit
Tracer bb's
Heat shrink
Some basic tools
How to:
Fit Your hop unit to decide on how to use available space. I fitted mine on the opposite to side of where bolt plate is.
Drill 3mm holes in space between hop chamber and feeding tube neck-this is very cruicial for Your gun to work.
Now test fit leds if they are flat headed just test drop a single bb down the feeding tube and glue leds in. I clipped my diodes, buffed them with a dremel and glued them in.
Solder them together in parallel(+to+,-to-),optionally put 100ohm resistor in front of each one. Wire to power source- I used £1 torch guts (3x1.2v AAA in a battery box running at 2.8V, leds operate at about 3V so I skipped the resistor part.
Alternative way of powering:
Wire leds in line(+to-,+to-...), solder 150ohm in front and plug to Your gun battery(if You run more that 9.6V as this will burn up over 9.9V.
Pros:
+Cheap (I spent £15)
+Doesnt affect gun's operation
+See where Your bb's are going at night
+Looks cool
+Use to lure and distract enemy
Cons:
-Enemy can trace You back
-If always on can be spotted if directly looked at (hint of blue down the barrel)
-Need to buy tracer bb's
Things to consider:
I used plastic SHS hop- it glows when leds are on and lets light "escape"
Pressure switch or wiring it to trigger/mosfet would make it less of a Tactical Traitor and more of a Tactical Tracer as it would be on only when needed.
Appologies to all for whom this tutorial is not sufficient enough-my phone died when posting first time and I just couldn't be bothered to write an exhausing essay on dropping current, resistance, soldering and all that...
View attachment 29450
View attachment 29453
View attachment 29454
View attachment 29455
View attachment 29456
View attachment 29457
