ARES SR25, almost stock - looking for better range+accuracy+consistency!

[CrumpsRAWR]

Hi there!

I purchased my SR25 Carbine from a good friend a while back, slapped a better high torque motor in, added a M120 and a Maple leaf 60 degree rubber. 

Straight to the point, it's not very consistent at range, a friend shooting at me from 65m away was able to land maybe 3/10 shots on target with minimal wind, the rest were a good 1-2 ft away from my body, (above, to the side, dropping short).

I'm using .40g BBs at the moment, have tried multiple brands.

I'm running 11.1 25c LiPo batteries.

So...

I've been doing a lot of reading up and there are of course plenty of conflicting posts but the general consensus seems to be:

• Btter, shorter barrel to keep the air volume up
  
• Change hop unit to apply flat hop nub, and different rubber flat hopped
  
• Bigger spring to give it better FPS since the barrel will be shortened
  

I can't spend huge so I'm thinking the following:

• ZCI Stainless steel 263mm 6.02
  
• G&G Green flat hopped
  
• Namazu flat hop nub
  
• Lonex metal hop chamber
  

What do you guys think of the changes? Would you recommend other things? Is my information incorrect?

Cheers chaps!

 

[MisterG]

Hi, have you done the basic checks for airleaks, checked everything aligned and cleaned the barrel?

PFTE taped the barrel to prevent play between the inner and outer barrel.

60 is the hardness for 350fps AFAIK, so you may need a 70.

Cheers

G

 

[CrumpsRAWR]

Hi mate, thanks for the reply!

So I'm not sure how to check for air leaks, new to teching, I did the paper test on the hop chamber and the little bit of paper jumps off when I shoot it? I've heard that's a sign there is a leak.
I have PTFE'd the hop unit to the barrel to help prevent any loss there, again not sure how to check alignment however the BBs shoot nice and straight out until the wind takes control as it slows down, barrel is cleaned as much as I could (It is stock).

I did PTFE the barrel, it's very snug in the outer.

Didn't ask many questions when it came to the rubber as I heard the 60 degree was a good one but I may just invest in a 70.

Could you suggest some tests to try or things for me to check/look at?

Cheers,

Ryan.

 

[MisterG]

Hi

Various tests you can do on Youtube.  Fixes are tytpically PFTE the cylinder head, new nozzle if worn, or a better one with )rings.  Check Oring in cylinder head and make sure it is well lubricated.

Cheers

G

 

[CrumpsRAWR]

So I spoke to the chap who worked on the gun, and he said after cleaning and lubing everything he found no issues with the airseals or leaks, so I guess I can take his word
 

Cheers,

Ryan.

 

[Iceni]

What FPS are you running at? I take it from the numbers this is a 400fps DMR.

At 400fps  on a 0.4g bb your maximum range is about the distance you have noted 65M.

You already have the maple leaf rubber and I take it  you are using the omega nub with  it.

Btter, shorter barrel to keep the air volume up

Click to shrink...

You do this to improve FPS consistency, If your gun has a wide range of FPS values say 435-450  (3%) on the chrono then shortening the barrel will bring that to a tighter tolerance. Having a tighter fps range  means you get a more consistent hop. So in theory it should make the gun more predictable.

If your gun already has a tight fps consistency say +-2fps then shortening the barrel isn't going to do anything for your gun. It'll just slow down the fps.

The values for the SR25 are going to be different to a regular AEG. For a start there are 2 common gearbox types, the version 2, and the version 2.5  the latter is longer both in cylinder and piston and has more teeth on the sector gear. It may well have the volume to be able to deal with the 510mm inner barrel without an issue. You need to spend time on the chrono and work out if it's consistent or not then act depending on that result.

If the FPS is consistent then look at the barrel. If it's full of scratches, or of an unknown make a simple swap to a higher end one  at the same length might be all you need.

If the chrono is all over the place then the new barrel at a shorter length might be an option. Personally I would do the maths on the current volume ratio's and work out what length is going to be right.

ZCI Stainless steel 263mm 6.02

Click to shrink...

I think you mean 363mm. Again this is for a regular aeg, The V2.5 gearbox is going to want something longer if that is the gearbox  you have. I wouldn't buy anything until  you can spend some serious time on a chrono and get the numbers  you need  first.


 

 

[AshOnSnow]

So I spoke to the chap who worked on the gun, and he said after cleaning and lubing everything he found no issues with the airseals or leaks, so I guess I can take his word
 

Cheers,

Ryan.

Click to shrink...

Where was this?

 

[CrumpsRAWR]

What FPS are you running at? I take it from the numbers this is a 400fps DMR.

At 400fps  on a 0.4g bb your maximum range is about the distance you have noted 65M.

You already have the maple leaf rubber and I take it  you are using the omega nub with  it.

You do this to improve FPS consistency, If your gun has a wide range of FPS values say 435-450  (3%) on the chrono then shortening the barrel will bring that to a tighter tolerance. Having a tighter fps range  means you get a more consistent hop. So in theory it should make the gun more predictable.

If your gun already has a tight fps consistency say +-2fps then shortening the barrel isn't going to do anything for your gun. It'll just slow down the fps.

The values for the SR25 are going to be different to a regular AEG. For a start there are 2 common gearbox types, the version 2, and the version 2.5  the latter is longer both in cylinder and piston and has more teeth on the sector gear. It may well have the volume to be able to deal with the 510mm inner barrel without an issue. You need to spend time on the chrono and work out if it's consistent or not then act depending on that result.

If the FPS is consistent then look at the barrel. If it's full of scratches, or of an unknown make a simple swap to a higher end one  at the same length might be all you need.

If the chrono is all over the place then the new barrel at a shorter length might be an option. Personally I would do the maths on the current volume ratio's and work out what length is going to be right.

I think you mean 363mm. Again this is for a regular aeg, The V2.5 gearbox is going to want something longer if that is the gearbox  you have. I wouldn't buy anything until  you can spend some serious time on a chrono and get the numbers  you need  first.


 

Click to shrink...

Hi there! It's roughly 395~ fps, varies 3-6 fps, but every now and then may chrono like 370? the hop unit cannot use a hop nub as the hop unit that came with the gun has it's own pre moulded nub on the arm, like a downward facing C.

Hmm, I'm hearing a lot of conflicting things about the barrels, quite a few sources are saying to use a smaller length barrel, but that is because it's the newer version of the Ares SR25, with a standard V2 M4 gearbox.

I'll be 100% getting a new barrel, but just torn on length now. How do I do the math on correct volume? I've also been told to maybe drop to .32 or maybe .36 BBs as the gun may deal with them better? That in mind I am thinking about upping to 420 FPS as that is the limit of the site, so why not utilize it?

Where was this?

Click to shrink...

Hey, this was done at Urban Airsoft.

https://urbanairsoftuk.com/

 

[Iceni]

395~ fps, varies 3-6 fps

Click to shrink...

That is about 2% variance but those low drops to 370 are something you should spend time on the chrono with to see just how often they happen. I suspect they happen more than you would realise.


Standard cylinder is 23.5mm, and standard stroke of a piston is 50mm on a 16 tooth rack with 8mm of cylinder head and a sorbo/rubber pad. You'll have a marginally longer stroke with a single oring head but only 3-4mm more.

Since you are looking at the ZCI inner barrels I'll do you some voluming with those at 6.02mm.

510mm   1.5 :1
450mm   1.69 :1
400mm   1.9 :1
380mm   2.01 :1
363mm   2.1 :1
340mm   2.24 :1
254mm   3.00 :1


363mm would be a good place to start but AK2M4 only has 340 and 380 in stock atm. Since the 340 is only £18.50 I recon it might be worth a gamble.


Upping the FPS won't correct a volume issue, You might find simply changing to the 363/340 is enough to make those 0.4's lift consistently.

 

 

[CrumpsRAWR]

That is about 2% variance but those low drops to 370 are something you should spend time on the chrono with to see just how often they happen. I suspect they happen more than you would realise.


Standard cylinder is 23.5mm, and standard stroke of a piston is 50mm on a 16 tooth rack with 8mm of cylinder head and a sorbo/rubber pad. You'll have a marginally longer stroke with a single oring head but only 3-4mm more.

Since you are looking at the ZCI inner barrels I'll do you some voluming with those at 6.02mm.

510mm   1.5 :1
450mm   1.69 :1
400mm   1.9 :1
380mm   2.01 :1
363mm   2.1 :1
340mm   2.24 :1
254mm   3.00 :1


363mm would be a good place to start but AK2M4 only has 340 and 380 in stock atm. Since the 340 is only £18.50 I recon it might be worth a gamble.


Upping the FPS won't correct a volume issue, You might find simply changing to the 363/340 is enough to make those 0.4's lift consistently.

 

Click to shrink...

Yeah I'll be taking a good 50-100 shots in the Chrono when I'm down next to see what is happening, I'll give the 340 a go and see how it fares,

Thanks for the help buddy