Airsoft Forums UK

tappet plate being retracted to far ?

bottoms out on cylinder head, then wears out the fin quick

or busts the tappet plate

do you have a delay clip fitted ???

what type of cylinder head is in there

some heads sit more forward than others

(and some further back)

SHS blue tappet plates also retract further back than most others

if you add a delay clip to sector & use shs tappet = very likely to bottom out

bone stock gearbox, no mosfest or nowt.

there is a delay chip, but not a normal one as it's a brass circular jobby on the pin of the sector gear which raises the total draw length, i presume there must be some design need for it being a mostly custom box, i was surprised it was even a standard tappet plate (hence the status update)

i suspect the reason it broke originally is either a weak tappet plate or possibly the return spring is the strongest i've seen on an aeg. if it breaks again i'll try a weaker spring as it's not as if it's got to deal with a lot of tension on the bb feed due to the electric mag (the m4 however could well do with a stronger spring, i sense a swap coming over)

i chucked in a king arms v2 tappet plate i had going spare and it's back on form now.

Ahhhh

see those brass circular clips actually retract the fin a smidge further....



see the hole, well there is say 0.75 extra material now added to sector lug

Now if these are fitted to certain tappet plates....

SHS especially, well certain tappets retract a little further than others

So add a clip and use a tappet like SHS - viola bottoming out on cylinder head

You can check tappet retraction in top half of gearbox more accurately

place tappet, then sector and see how far it retracts

well add in cylinder + head + nozzle etc.....

turn sector over and you should feel any resistance if it bottoms out

Now some cylinder heads have a faint outer ring

see pic at 12 o'clock - very faint outer ring.....



It is hard to spot but on these blue/red type heads you can claw back some

remove the two o-rings, then fit old $hit stock nozzle to protect the spout

Now file down this outer ring with a small flat craft file, so it is all flush

(yeah that thin groove where o-ring sits gets very fine but go with it...)

Also mark the position on cylinder where head fits....

file down about 0.75 to 1mm max

clean up any modifications, nice and smooth with fine emery etc....

refit o-rings and reassemble it all and retest

now that tappet plate can retract up to 1mm further back

Also slightly further retraction = further nozzle retraction for reliable feeding

(without smashing f*ck against the cylinder head)

Basically I'd like people like SHS to slightly redesign their f*cking $hit a bit

set the head back say 1mm further, we can file the cylinder where tappet fits

(if required - especially on v2's)

thus allowing a little further retraction for better feeding n $hit

See often you don't need a delayer as such

but more a tiny whisker further retraction

if nozzle only clears hop feed tube by 5.5mm

it won't matter if there is a 10 minute delay, a 6mm bb won't chamber

if you think how short the fin is on a DSG - can't fit a clip onthere

BUT you can add a small thin tube/sleeve to increase retraction

(but not delay the nozzle tappet of course on a DSG with critical timings)

Also as you have a delay clip, and you might reduce the tension....

well if you have a large full fin, you might wish to trim fin slightly

as it is being delayed longer anyway

and it is retraction not delay that helps feeding

not a massive amount of trimming of fin, but say 3-5mm

or halfway between a reg full fin and a DSG fin perhaps

It is all about checking the retraction in other top half of box

the delay bollox is not that important - but trying to get max retraction

without smashing f*ck out of tappet against the cylinder head

Get this right and it feed well even with so-so mags with light mag springs

V3's often retract further than v2's - they just do

with v2's you got very little leeway of getting nozzle to feed/chamber

and also still seal against bucking lips.....



a tappet is say 3mm thick so 10mm - 3mm leaves 7mm room to retract nozzle

you need say 1mm pressure to seal on bucking

so you have 6mm clearance to feed a bb !!!!

On a v3 you got 11mm so you got 8mm to seal & feed bb's

Thus on v2's you need to check and try to reclaim what you can

sand front of tappet to help seal, plus see if you can get retraction to max

PITA toy guns and wish manufacturers would re-do their heads a smidge

Soz for ultra long waffle but trying to give you some pointers and heads up

so you get max retraction but check for it all bottoming out

plus some ideas to reclaim some tiny extra room that some boxes really need