The 'What have you just bought' Thread

Classic Army 249 mk2 brand new for £265.

Can't grumble at that - now just to find a decent after market hop up for it......

Why Classic Army? I'm from a time when they were considered the best of the bunch, id still put them over A&K, S&T, SA & the like, They take Stanag's & I've got access to an ASCU for one. Properly excited and that doesn't happen a lot!
 
Classic Army 249 mk2 brand new for £265.

Can't grumble at that - now just to find a decent after market hop up for it......

Why Classic Army? I'm from a time when they were considered the best of the bunch, id still put them over A&K, S&T, SA & the like, They take Stanag's & I've got access to an ASCU for one. Properly excited and that doesn't happen a lot!
Nice! I am going to be working on a CA Stoner LMG for a friend soon; it is the first LMG that I have worked on, so I am looking forward to it.
 
Nice! I am going to be working on a CA Stoner LMG for a friend soon; it is the first LMG that I have worked on, so I am looking forward to it.
Good luck, mines been a nightmare. So much promise though. From the off: add an extra two screws between the grip and gearbox, swap to a bullgear hop unit - and be prepared to play around with rubbers and inner barrel combos; and run the box mag off a rechargeable 9v lithium battery.
 
Good luck, mines been a nightmare. So much promise though. From the off: add an extra two screws between the grip and gearbox, swap to a bullgear hop unit - and be prepared to play around with rubbers and inner barrel combos; and run the box mag off a rechargeable 9v lithium battery.
Thanks:). We have the Bullgear hop unit ready to fit and I think that the problem he is having is at least partly related to the hob rubber/barrel.
 
Thanks:). We have the Bullgear hop unit ready to fit and I think that the problem he is having is at least partly related to the hob rubber/barrel.
From memory, i ended up using an old barrel from a JG G36C, together with a Chinese clone of a MR Hop rubber and omega nub. The positioning of the cut/window in the barrel (probably the forwards/backwards location) seems to be crucial for good operation of the bullgear hop unit. Bullgear recommend a prommy purple, but that didn't work for me with the stock barrel or any others that i tried.
 
New thermal optic for me (let's call it a birthday present).
Infiray Jerry YM 2.0, found a 2nd hand one with just 6h of usage for not *that* much (2.3k).

Then a new "workshop" chrono (acetech 6000 mk3), a bunch of nitecore 4000mAh 18650s, some nitecore rechargeable AAs and a battery charger.
 
Picked this up from a shop in Japan for just over £100 including postage. Going straight on my Tanaka G33/40 to make that into a bit of a 1.1J scout bolt action rifle. If I want to snipe with a WW2 bolt action, I have my full length PPS K98k with a proper scope after all.

I think it was a dropshipper from Akihabara, because it was marketed towards non-Japanese people and mostly stocked anime stuff, but they just so happened to have one of these too. Looks brand new 😁

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Bought a WE CQB M4 GBBR from mrboo, my intention was to turn it into an L119A1 clone-ish but fell at the first hurdle coz the flash hider is CW, no regrets tho coz I like it as it is & with plenty mags it's ready for a game day at some point.

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Already got a few bits n bobs for an L119A1 so have a cheap Double Bell CQB M4 aeg on it's way to mock up.
 
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Just an m-lok to ris rail to let me put a light on my shotgun. The only downside is I don't have an allen key long enough to reach inside the very grip to get that off before I can even think of getting the pump grip off
 
Sets of allen screwdrivers (shafts around 4-5") have really earned their money for me in terms of M-LOK attachments, recommended purchase for anyone who doesn't exclusively do old-school gats.
 
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