TM vsr10 g-spec

Rickwales

Rickwales

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I'm having a few issues and could do with some advice. I don't have access to a chronograph unfortunately at the moment, getting one after Christmas. 

It's underpowered for sure. 

So it's got an Airsoft pro cylinder with upgraded spring, follower, cylinder and piston head. Id only shot it in the garage at about 5m, but it was perfectly accurate. I added a maple leaf 430mm barrel and their 70' bucking. And a couple of barrel stabilisers. It has the original hop unit but the pro hop arm thing. 

I've had it apart 5 or 6 times now, so I'm fairly confident I've done the work properly. But Its my first Airsoft sniper I've worked on. I have resealed pcps  etc in the past without issues 

I drilled out the end of the barrel carefully to fit the longer barrel halfway into the gspec silencer. 

I've resealed the cylinder head with one layer of that white tape. PTFE I think. Did it with the direction of the thread. Also one layer over the barrel and bucking thing. 

Took it to Airsoft yesterday, but it would only shoot to 10m before dropping off. Was using .32s as it's the heaviest I have at the moment. I didn't have time to look at it or borrow a chronograph yesterday as was busy setting up the other gear for my son and his mates, so back home now looking at it 

Also has upgraded trigger unit from Airsoft pro. 

I got new pistol seal and changed that over too. The 1st one was very loose, but so are the new ones. I believe this is normal for them?

Any advice gratefully received. 

Thanks 

 
So, I've had another play. If I put full hop on, the bbs get stuck in the bucking. It's gotta be either the spring or the rubber bucking surely? 

Modify Predator Hop Up Bucking is the one I've fitted, but I don't know what spring is in it unfortunately. 

 
Think it's gonna be a new hop up. Tried everything else.
 
Rickwales said:
I've resealed the cylinder head with one layer of that white tape. PTFE I think. Did it with the direction of the thread. Also one layer over the barrel and bucking thing.
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You shouldn't use ptfe tape to seal parts, usually a decent amount of lube (grease, oil, your call) does the trick.. if it's still leaking then replace the o-ring or get a slightly fatter one.

Check all the seals again, also check if the nozzle is making good contact (and seal) with the hop rubber. Do syringe tests everywhere (for piston/cylinder head plug the nozzle with your finger and fire a shot, you shouldn't hear any air escaping, if it is then locate where it's leaking from and fix that), you can do the test on a fully assembled rifle by simply plugging the barrel with your finger (make sure there are no bbs in the chamber, don't ask how i know).
 
Thanks for the reply, I've done a cylinder test and it seems ok. I've replaced the oring already. It's the Airsoft pro one and it's very loose. I read that's normal tho? I've brought another more powerful spring, and got a softer bucking 50 degree one coming. Don't really want to upgrade the hop if I can help it as it's not my main sniper now I've got he tac41. I want to concentrate my budget in that now. I'll test it in the range next time I'm there and see if it improves anything.
I've used moly lube in all the right places.
Thanks
 
I bought a second hand maruzen L96 ages ago that had a similar issue. It had issues hence it was silly cheap.
I checked the usual suspects, found someone had thrown a load of airsoft pro bits inside it but no power.
The cylinder seal was good, the barrel true and clean, the hop rubber was new and decent make.
Eventually i got to the hop unit and fought with it to try and make it work. Eventually i gave up and bought a new hop unit (granted not cheap) but it started doing what i wanted to it to do.
Somewhere along the way there were bits lost from the hop unit (the L96 one is a monster of a thing :) )

If the cylinder seal is ok, then its the next weak link along, the hop unit.
 
Yep, I fear it's the hop. Considering a new hop and tdc in the new year if it's still playing up. Frustrating and expensive process unfortunately
 
AirsoftPro stuff is known for being underated as well so you've got a proper problem. An M150 spring from them in a VSR with a 430mm barrel should be putting you 550+ kind of region.
Take the outer barrel assembley off so you have receiver in hand, cock it, finger over cylinder head, pull trigger. Does it hold seal? Yes - Great move on, No - problem is there.
Re-assemble outer barrel, no mags or BB's, finger over end of inner barrel, cock and pull trigger, does it hold pressure. Yes - You're fine it's just dodgy hop not working but getting full power, No - Problem is bucking or hopup.

If it's a TM G-Spec the hopup should be golden, try a maple leaf non silicon bucking.

And buy a chrono.
 
Rickwales said:
Yep, I fear it's the hop. Considering a new hop and tdc in the new year if it's still playing up. Frustrating and expensive process unfortunately
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A suggestion in case you haven't bought a new hop yet, I use the TTI Airsoft hop unit. Comes complete with a drilling guide plus a clicky TDC wheel so it's (almost) fool proof and only around the £50 area. Performs very very well. Bucking wise, I use a Maple Leaf MR hop 70 degree and a standard G-spec length Crazy Jet barrel which is 303mm IIRC? On a M140 (I think) it sits right on the power limit.
 
Brought a Tac41 lite, so kinda lost interest... I put a 430mm barrel in and a 150m spring and it's about running about 400 with .4s and 350 on 2.8s. I have looked into the TTI, and I will probably get one and return to the 140m. I tried heating and flattening a few coils on the 159m, but didn't make much difference to the power.
Advice much appreciated mate, I will get the hop unit soon.
 
Rickwales said:
Brought a Tac41 lite, so kinda lost interest... I put a 430mm barrel in and a 150m spring and it's about running about 400 with .4s and 350 on 2.8s. I have looked into the TTI, and I will probably get one and return to the 140m. I tried heating and flattening a few coils on the 159m, but didn't make much difference to the power.
Advice much appreciated mate, I will get the hop unit soon.
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Snap! Made the same purchase this week albeit with differing parts. 400 with a 0.4 is 2.97 joules my guy so yeah get that reduced. I would suggest a very quick way would be swapping back to the stock barrel. I think they're 330mm stock so the extra length will be helping that figure and a wild guess is it'll be tighter than the stock 6.05. Stock SBA barrels are pretty decent and if you're in a pinch it's easier than flattening or cutting coils.
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Drop £14 on an airbrake piston head, stick the long airbrake in and then you get less piston slap and potentially a good reduction on that output power as well.
 
Steveocee said:
Snap! Made the same purchase this week albeit with differing parts. 400 with a 0.4 is 2.97 joules my guy so yeah get that reduced. I would suggest a very quick way would be swapping back to the stock barrel. I think they're 330mm stock so the extra length will be helping that figure and a wild guess is it'll be tighter than the stock 6.05. Stock SBA barrels are pretty decent and if you're in a pinch it's easier than flattening or cutting coils.
-or-
Drop £14 on an airbrake piston head, stick the long airbrake in and then you get less piston slap and potentially a good reduction on that output power as well.
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Yep, maple leaf tight bore...
Had to drill out the end cap of he barrel to fit it.
I'll do.
 
Been playing with it this morning. Swapped back to the m140. It's putting out 384ish on .32s. I only have .4s that are heavier then it definitely goes over my sites limits. It's pretty consistent to be fair.
Will do some more experimenting with the hop. Can't test the range here unfortunately due to neighbours and a small garage.
 
Rickwales said:
Been playing with it this morning. Swapped back to the m140. It's putting out 384ish on .32s. I only have .4s that are heavier then it definitely goes over my sites limits. It's pretty consistent to be fair.
Will do some more experimenting with the hop. Can't test the range here unfortunately due to neighbours and a small garage.
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384 on a .32 is fine, 2.19J. What you need is this (shameless self plug) https://angrybull.co.uk/tools/fps-converter/
Or....
I like this one better, you're sniping so stick in the sniper J limit (2.32 at most) and tell it what ammo you're using (0.32) and it gives an FPS you can't go above when chrono'ing with that weight!
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https://angrybull.co.uk/tools/whats-my-limit/
 
Guy from my site gave me this. It's what I was using. I have a cheap chrono that I put the weight in etc
 

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Yet to test it against another chronograph to check the accuracy, but it seems to work ok
 

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Steveocee said:
384 on a .32 is fine, 2.19J. What you need is this (shameless self plug) https://angrybull.co.uk/tools/fps-converter/
Or....
I like this one better, you're sniping so stick in the sniper J limit (2.32 at most) and tell it what ammo you're using (0.32) and it gives an FPS you can't go above when chrono'ing with that weight!
View attachment 9925
https://angrybull.co.uk/tools/whats-my-limit/
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Nice website by the way, I already had it in my bookmarks.
 
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